Help on buying WIFI router

[mavs88]

I need to get one with :
1) Good 5GHz, 2.4GHz range (longest range)
2) 802.11 a/b/g/n/ac
3) support IPv6
4) less than $200
5) east of setup
6) I don't do much gaming but watch alot of movies, with 4 IPADs.
7) Currently, I have the mode/wifi combo unit arris sbg6580, but the wifi range is short and drops frequently due to inteference.

I read alot of good reviews on Netgear X4S R7800 but it seems like it is not IPv6 compatible as in the following link :
https://kb.netgear.com/19308/IPv6-compatibility-on-NETGEAR-routers

Any good recommendation ? Asus RT-AC88U

Thanks !

 

[MichaelCG]

If your WiFi drops due to interference, it is unlikely any "single" WiFi router/AP will fix that. You either need to resolve the interference itself or get your clients closer to your router/AP.

 

[mavs88]

I just checked with the wifi analyzer app, it shows so much interference between channel 1 to 6 and then 10 to 11. I place it around channel 7 or 8, it is better now. However, I think the range of this modem/wifi combo is rather weak, likely need a good wifi router to spread. The ethernet connection to the modem is decent performance. I wish to get one wifi router with the 2.4 or 5GHz signal that can penetrate walls better.

 

[TonyH]

I need to get one with :
1) Good 5GHz, 2.4GHz range (longest range)
2) 802.11 a/b/g/n/ac
3) support IPv6
4) less than $200
5) east of setup
6) I don't do much gaming but watch alot of movies, with 4 IPADs.
7) Currently, I have the mode/wifi combo unit arris sbg6580, but the wifi range is short and drops frequently due to inteference.

I read alot of good reviews on Netgear X4S R7800 but it seems like it is not IPv6 compatible as in the following link :
https://kb.netgear.com/19308/IPv6-compatibility-on-NETGEAR-routers

Any good recommendation ? Asus RT-AC88U

Thanks !

Regarding interference, do you use WiFi analyzer of some sort to see around your neighborhood WiFi situation? Is it crowded band issue or other EMI problem?

 

[mavs88]

Regarding interference, do you use WiFi analyzer of some sort to see around your neighborhood WiFi situation? Is it crowded band issue or other EMI problem?

The Andriod play store has an awesome wifi analyzer, to check nearby signals on channel 1 to 11.

 

[Klueless]

I just checked with the wifi analyzer app, it shows so much interference between channel 1 to 6 and then 10 to 11. I place it around channel 7 or 8, it is better now. However, I think the range of this modem/wifi combo is rather weak, likely need a good wifi router to spread. The ethernet connection to the modem is decent performance. I wish to get one wifi router with the 2.4 or 5GHz signal that can penetrate walls better.

I agree with Michael, a little upfront tweaking will greatly increase the chances of the successful implementation of your new router.

• Like Tony suggested, do you have any baby monitors, old (2.4 GHz) cordless phones, etc. around the house?
• Are any of the encroaching SSIDs yours; like a printer you don't need or a smart phone broadcasting a hotspot?
• What is the speed of your Internet? Your Ethernet device achieves those speeds?
• Do any of your wireless devices achieve those speeds? At least in some locations?
• Your WiFi Analyzer already helped you identify that there's a lot of contention for channel space. How about signal levels? Does bad performance correlate with bad signal levels? (Some locations work, some don't?)
• Are your problematic iPads connecting at 2.4 or 5 GHz? 2.4 is "further" and 5 is "faster" but 5 doesn't go as far (or through walls) and can quickly become slower.
• Where is your modem/router located? Often your ISP will locate your equipment in the worst locations simply because that's where the wire comes into the house. Like some far remote corner. Moving it out of a corner or off the floor can help.
  • The Ethernet cable between your modem and new router will help afford better placement.

Now let's buy a router. I like Asus; they're price/performance competitive, user interface is good and the built-in traffic monitor can be very useful for towards identifying performance issues. Your needs sound modest so you might be very happy with the RT-AC1750 B1. If you've the extra money I'd be remiss not to mention the RT-AC3100 (aka 88U? I get confused ...)

It's the holiday shopping season, hopefully you catch a good sale!

 

[mavs88]

I agree with Michael, a little upfront tweaking will greatly increase the chances of the successful implementation of your new router.

• Like Tony suggested, do you have any baby monitors, old (2.4 GHz) cordless phones, etc. around the house?
• Are any of the encroaching SSIDs yours; like a printer you don't need or a smart phone broadcasting a hotspot?
• What is the speed of your Internet? Your Ethernet device achieves those speeds?
• Do any of your wireless devices achieve those speeds? At least in some locations?
• Your WiFi Analyzer already helped you identify that there's a lot of contention for channel space. How about signal levels? Does bad performance correlate with bad signal levels? (Some locations work, some don't?)
• Are your problematic iPads connecting at 2.4 or 5 GHz? 2.4 is "further" and 5 is "faster" but 5 doesn't go as far (or through walls) and can quickly become slower.
• Where is your modem/router located? Often your ISP will locate your equipment in the worst locations simply because that's where the wire comes into the house. Like some far remote corner. Moving it out of a corner or off the floor can help.
  • The Ethernet cable between your modem and new router will help afford better placement.

Now let's buy a router. I like Asus; they're price/performance competitive, user interface is good and the built-in traffic monitor can be very useful for towards identifying performance issues. Your needs sound modest so you might be very happy with the RT-AC1750 B1. If you've the extra money I'd be remiss not to mention the RT-AC3100 (aka 88U? I get confused ...)

It's the holiday shopping season, hopefully you catch a good sale!

Appreciate your advice !

1) Why RT-AC1750 B1 (emphasize B1 ?) ... RT-AC66U instead of RT-AC68U ? ..The 88U seems overkill for me with the 8 ethernet ports.
2) Why is it important to have good user interface ?
2) I don't have baby monitors, cordless phone. I do have a home security system with wireless monitoring (GSM transmitter).
3) The internet is 50 Mbit/s / 5 Mbit/s. My cable is able to achieve this constantly but 5GHz and 2.4GHz needs to be close(5 feet) to be reliable.
4) My current modem/wifi SBG 6580 is only on 802.11 n-mode. I think having ac-mode would help. Most of new modem are like AC1900 dual-band concurrent instead of this "N300 dual-switched". I think this newer technology would help the switching over more smoothly.
5) I'm also looking at tri-band router (TP-LINK got some economical products).

I think it's so important to find one with good (wall) penetrating range and stable WIFI router. Some threads on this forum mentioned NETgear X4 R7800 has good wall penetrating range ... It's so convenient when you use it in rooms.

Thanks !

 

[MichaelCG]

RT-AC66U will work, but is dated. This is a decent option only if you are looking for a true low budget replacement.

A tri-band solution is overkill for the requirements touch defined. Usually tri-band is beneficial when higher bandwidth client needs exist.

Any AC router will have drastically better WiFi performance than you currently have.

What are your modem plans? None of the models discussed so far are modems....just routers.

Sent from some device using Tapatalk

 

[mavs88]

RT-AC66U will work, but is dated. This is a decent option only if you are looking for a true low budget replacement.

A tri-band solution is overkill for the requirements touch defined. Usually tri-band is beneficial when higher bandwidth client needs exist.

Any AC router will have drastically better WiFi performance than you currently have.

What are your modem plans? None of the models discussed so far are modems....just routers.

Sent from some device using Tapatalk

Thanks MichaelCG,
a newer modem is in my plans but it seems like the problem is more of WIFI as my cable ethernet option seems to serve me well right now. I think with the new WIFI router, I need to "bridge" it to the existing Modem, maybe the better UI of ASUS would make this bridging more effortless. I need to research more as to how's the range reachable between 88U or 68U or 66U, and stability.

 

[Klueless]

A tri-band solution is overkill for the requirements touch defined. Usually tri-band is beneficial when higher bandwidth client needs exist

Third band could also be useful for a dedicated back haul from a range extender ...

 

[mavs88]

Third band could also be useful for a dedicated back haul from a range extender ...

Can't the range extender uses the only 5GHz band ? currently that's what I have which is having the extender hook onto the 5GHz band. Still not clear why need a dedicated 5GHz for that. Thanks.

 

[Klueless]

1) Why RT-AC1750 B1 (emphasize B1 ?) ... RT-AC66U instead of RT-AC68U ? ..The 88U seems overkill for me with the 8 ethernet ports.
==> B1 is an update to the AC1750 (the older one is already on the clearance shelves) meaning newer, updated, more current. I think (I'm too lazy to look it up) it's also dual-core. Might be closer to a 68U than a 66U?
==> The AC3100 has 4 Ethernet ports. My mistake on the 88U (which you had mentioned in your OP), I thought they were roughly the same save the extra Ethernet ports, I was wrong.

2) Why is it important to have good user interface ?
==> When you're old and of limited skills (me!) you don''t want a sloppy interface interfering with setup.

2) I don't have baby monitors, cordless phone. I do have a home security system with wireless monitoring (GSM transmitter).
==> Was just poking to see if you had anything that might be messing with the 2.4 GHz band. Not familiar with GSM.

3) The internet is 50 Mbit/s / 5 Mbit/s. My cable is able to achieve this constantly but 5GHz and 2.4GHz needs to be close(5 feet) to be reliable.
==> 5 feet? Ouch! That's crazy : -(

4) My current modem/wifi SBG 6580 is only on 802.11 n-mode. I think having ac-mode would help. Most of new modem are like AC1900 dual-band concurrent instead of this "N300 dual-switched". I think this newer technology would help the switching over more smoothly.
==> Dual band. B, G, N on 2.4, N only on 5. Do you have a separate SSID for each band such that you know what's connecting on what? Or are you left in the dark as to which band you're connected to (like is it possible only one band is giving you trouble but we don't know)?

I tend to like knowing what's wrong with the old such that I don't have the same disappointment with the replacement.

 

[mavs88]

1) Why RT-AC1750 B1 (emphasize B1 ?) ... RT-AC66U instead of RT-AC68U ? ..The 88U seems overkill for me with the 8 ethernet ports.
==> B1 is an update to the AC1750 (the older one is already on the clearance shelves) meaning newer, updated, more current. I think (I'm too lazy to look it up) it's also dual-core. Might be closer to a 68U than a 66U?
==> The AC3100 has 4 Ethernet ports. My mistake on the 88U, I thought they were the same save the extra Ethernet ports?

2) Why is it important to have good user interface ?
==> When you're old and of limited skills (me!) you don''t want a sloppy interface interfering with setup.

2) I don't have baby monitors, cordless phone. I do have a home security system with wireless monitoring (GSM transmitter).
==> Was just poking to see if you had anything that might be messing with the 2.4 GHz band. Not familiar with GSM.

3) The internet is 50 Mbit/s / 5 Mbit/s. My cable is able to achieve this constantly but 5GHz and 2.4GHz needs to be close(5 feet) to be reliable.
==> 5 feet? Ouch! That's crazy : -(

4) My current modem/wifi SBG 6580 is only on 802.11 n-mode. I think having ac-mode would help. Most of new modem are like AC1900 dual-band concurrent instead of this "N300 dual-switched". I think this newer technology would help the switching over more smoothly.
==> Dual band. B, G, N on 2.4, N only on 5. Do you have a separate SSID for each band such that you know what's connecting on what? Or are you left in the dark as to which band you're connected to (like is it possible only one band is giving you trouble but we don't know)?

Thanks for the tips Klueless

1) My device do show which band I'm connecting to .... be it 2.4GHz or 5GHz, with a separate name.
2) I definitely appreciate easier UI but I would still rank stability and stronger range signals higher priority.

 

[Klueless]

Can't the range extender uses the only 5GHz band ? currently that's what I have which is having the extender hook onto the 5GHz band. Still not clear why need a dedicated 5GHz for that. Thanks.

Didn't know you were using a range extender?

If your client connects to the range extender at 5 GHz and your range extender connects to the router at 5 GHz your speeds with be significantly reduced because the range extender will stop receiving while transmitting to the router and vice-versa. Same for the 2.4 GHz band. (Think of it as sending everything twice!) Should work fine just slower.

I didn't quite understand your response but if you set 5 GHz for communication to the router only and 2.4 GHz for clients only (or vice-versa) that should work great! (It would no longer have to shut down clients while transmitting to the router because they'd be on different radios.) Now if you had a 3rd band on your router it could use one for its clients and the 3rd for range extender only. (And that's basically what an Orbi does.)

 

[Klueless]

1) My device do show which band I'm connecting to .... be it 2.4GHz or 5GHz, with a separate name.

And you're having the same distance / reliability problems with both bands? Uh, that's starting to point more and more towards the Arris ... which you thought all along!

2) I definitely appreciate easier UI but I would still rank stability and stronger range signals higher priority.

I agree but it's a great tie breaker.

 

[mavs88]

Didn't know you were using a range extender?

If your client connects to the range extender at 5 GHz and your range extender connects to the router at 5 GHz your speeds with be significantly reduced because the range extender will stop receiving while transmitting to the router and vice-versa. Same for the 2.4 GHz band. (Think of it as sending everything twice!) Should work fine just slower.

I didn't quite understand your response but if you set 5 GHz for communication to the router only and 2.4 GHz for clients only (or vice-versa) that should work great! (It would no longer have to shut down clients while transmitting to the router because they'd be on different radios.) Now if you had a 3rd band on your router it could use one for its clients and the 3rd for range extender only. (And that's basically what an Orbi does.)

The range extender were kinda useless for me. It is not stable and drops signals. My house wasn't big (for extender to be useful), the issue is walls. Sounds like if I were to use devices on extender ID, I will experience slowness due to sending back/forth which makes sense. Maybe I should remove the extender altogether. The extender is hooked on to the 5GHz band.

I don't quite understand what you mean "set 5GHz for communication to the router and 2.4GHz for clients."
In my LAN 192.168.0.1 Wireless page : I have the "802.11 Band" set to 2.4GHz as below picture. Thanks.

 

[Klueless]

The range extender were kinda useless for me. It is not stable and drops signals. My house wasn't big (for extender to be useful), the issue is walls. Sounds like if I were to use devices on extender ID, I will experience slowness due to sending back/forth which makes sense. Maybe I should remove the extender altogether. The extender is hooked on to the 5GHz band.

I don't quite understand what you mean "set 5GHz for communication to the router and 2.4GHz for clients."

The owner of the car lot bought the building next door. He moved staff in but there was no Internet. I bought a single band (radio), 2.4 GHz range extender, installed it and we had connectivity to the main building. There was a sizable hit in performance (like everyone said there would be) but it didn't matter because it was still faster than our slow DSL Internet connection.

2 or 3 years later it died and I replaced it with a two band (radio) range extender and configured it as I had mentioned; one radio dedicated to the router and the other to client devices. In theory you can set up any dual band extender this way if the user interface gives you the hooks to do so (and I couldn't tell from your screen shot if you can).

I had picked a Netgear 6150 (going from memory) that bragged about "fastpath". With the click of a couple of buttons I could dedicate one radio to the router and the 2nd radio to all the client devices in the 2nd building. (With a single band/radio the radio shuts down to the clients while it talks to the router. Kind of like those old walkie talkies we used as kids. where when you pressed talk to talk no one could talk to you.)

Worked great! Local speed tests showed virtually no performance hit, in fact it even ran better than some of the clients in the main building. Users even reported that the "lag" in interactive browser sessions was gone.

Since you have the range extender you have a toy to play with it you like. Move it closer to the router, not too close but closer, and see what happens. (BTW channel 9 on your range extender is kinda too close to the channels (7 & 8) you're using for your router. Who's using all the channels? Neighbors? If they're far enough away / their signal is weak enough you might be able to get away with one of those.)

But, yeah, you convinced me. See what happens with your new router. Keep the range extender in case you have a dead spot in a far corner of the house.

Best of luck!