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RT-N66U with 380.68_4 frequently drops wireless and needs cold restart

Shane Longtin

New Around Here
Ever since upgrading, it seems I can get about a day or so out of it before all my wireless devices either stop communicating, lose their IP addresses, or can't connect at all. Unplugging power for 15 seconds or so is the only way to get things back on track. I don't see anyone else mentioning this in the forums, but I didn't have this issue before upgrading firmware (was on 380.65_2).

I had it set to reboot the router each morning from before, but I've turned that off now in case that was causing issues. I don't see how, because it was exhibiting issues in the evening, but figured it's worth a try.

Thoughts?
 
Shane, Do you have you have IPs assigned to your devices in LAN DHCP, and on your vpn client page? Assigning each device their own static IP helps keep the devices from reassigning or wandering to other IPS. You didn't list the Asus model you have, what type, number of wireless devices connected, using 2.4, 5 ghz, A/C or all, how far from the floor your router is stationed, the average distances from your devices and/or total area of coverage, and last, how many nearby neighbors with WiFi are adding significant interference to your network. What channels are you using for your bands?

These are among the many questions to consider when you're experiencing dropouts/disruptions in connectivity. Keep reading on this and other forums, the answers to almost all questions are out there, depending how well you search. If you don't have good results on-site, fine tune your DuckDuckGo search page settings (or google if thats your cup of tea) and keep digging. Try to lurk about Asus-Merlin, read the fine wiki and as many of the other forum topics as you have time for each day; youtube can be quite helpful at times.

It's a bit difficult to offer any accurate guess-timates for your situation without knowing at least some of your specific settings and circumstances. We have an RT-AC3200 thats running Merlins latest version, v380.68_4; I strongly recommend that you consider updating to that version ASAP, if your router is among those he supports. Our wireless has been great since we updated to this release; you're missing out on significant security fixes and features.

Our systems are powered up in sequence each morning and removed from power each night. As long as your settings are saved, you shouldn't be losing connectivity; having to unplug or remove the power for 15 seconds during the day in order to regain connectivity is unusual.

What do all of your router general/route/connection logs reveal, do they showing any errors/disconnects/unresolved attempts? If your ISP is having any service or general connectivity issues, is your area oversubscribed? The same can happen with openvpn tunnels, VPN network providers may have a twitchy server or be undergoing reparis or upgrades. If your wireless routes through an openvpn tunnesl, changing to different tunnel/config (either UDP or TCP) might help stablize your connection.

One last guess (and these are all guesses in the darkness), any power fluctuations play merry havoc with modems and routers. If you don't have a battery backup/uninterrupted power supply for your modem and router, that can have a very positive effect, and save your connections and prolong the life of your router. We've used UPS/battery backups installed on our systems and electronics for over 25 years, and never lost any router modem or other part of the system to power outage or low voltage. I always recommended that all my clients buy and install them at the time they purchase or install any network or computer equipment; it's still a good thing that doesn't cost much, and can save the cost of new equipment. Gather some information and add to your post, it's entirely possible others will see it and offer their guesses to help you out. Cheers
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the thoughts St3v3n.

I didn’t include detail to that level because I’ve used the router on previous firmware for 2+ years with rare or no issues. There have been no physical changes to the environment or to the client devices. My ISP is rock-solid (I work from home and use a wired connection through the router all day every day with no issues). Literally the only thing that changed was upgrading to 380.68_4. The clients connecting are of wide variety (Windows machines, Macs, Rokus, iPhones) and all lose connection and fail to connect in coordination, though the WAN connection through the ISP is up, so it is definitely something with the router.

One thing I didn’t do (and in fact have never done, though it’s frequently recommended) is reset the settings to factory default and manually put them all back. I’m doing that now, but am having trouble connecting even after the reset. It appears I am not getting a DHCP address from the router.

I really don’t like hardcoding static IP info on every client, but I guess maybe I’ll try that and see what happens if I can get this configured again. Next step would be backleveling.
 
Shane Longtin, pardon my confusion, I misread that you -had not- yet upgraded to 380.68_4, apologies.
Our ISP is also rock solid, 99.99% or better most years; except when they have issues. Most of them won't tell you until their issues have passed, if then. Too many peoples' first impulse is to blame the router, but I understand your reluctance. To be safe, take a screengrab of all of the important tabs/pages in the GUI, to give yourself a slideshow to refer to, which avoids notetaking, writing down passwords, SSIDs, etc.

I sat on 380.68 stable until I read about the threats announced twos before, checked the status of Merlin; he had just released 380.68_4 about 30 minutes prior. I almost always restore my settings from the prior versiont then recheck them, so never worry about having to labor over keying in all the data manually. This has been a beautiful and stable build, and with over 150 different restore/reset and overwrites of configs and settings later, I'm only fighting the date/time bug; nothing else.

I understand that you're hesitant about assigning static IPs -to- your devices, but you don't have to- leave them as they are; the router takes care of that for you. The router sees the address each device broadcasts on (yes, even vaunted Apple devices). All you need do, is click on the pull-down menu in LAN DHCP, thereafter, whatever the router sees, it will automatically populate/use, every time you power up your router and devices. There's nothing to hardcode inside the device, unless you really like doing that manaually. I routinely avoid such pain. If you don't want to run a open WiFi system, where anyone/everyone can sign into your wife at will (not good security) then you don't have to. That is an eternal debate that's raged for many years and ever shall be thus; it's all up to your personal preference, more in line with your local WiFi environment. My iPad takes less than two seconds from the time I turn the radio on until it's sign into the router automatically, over our closed network, and never misses a tick. The router always remembers. No neighbors will be runnining around outside trying to determine where an unlisted 2.-5 ghz band eminates from, unless you're in an apartment building, wiht the radios' power cranked up and are using multiple APs The power doesn't need to turned up that high, unless you're trying to see how far you -can- broadcast. If you prefer to run openly and your name/SSIDs are known to the world, you'll be listed on all wi-fi maps, worldwide as a possible AP, which guarantees attention. Whatever makes you happy and comfortable. A semi-skilled 10 year old, with older brother handling the war-driving, can sniff anyone out in short order. It's only my opinion, that there's no point in aiding/abetting their mischief.

The 'set-your-device-ip' procedure is dead-simple and automated, and I figured you already knew the process. With you devices broadcasting and SSIDs, bands and power levels as you wish, just use the pull-down menu in LAN DHCP; you'll see the device, its' address, and give it a happy, user-friendly name, then click to add it, go back to the pull down menu and repeast until all your devices are listed; click at the bottom of the page on Apply to save; you're finished; Done.

I can think of two reasons why your devices may be dropping or lose their IPs, if there's nothing physically wrong with the router; if the SSIDs aren't set the same, the devices can wander and drop signal/IPs if the local area is saturated with many devices, covered in many other threads. Depending on the model/age of your router, how many radios are trying to latch on to your router at once, how many neighbors are confusing your signal (saturation), overlapping bands, etc. Unfortunately, it's not unheard of for WiFi radios to fail in any particular make/model; electronic gear isn't immune from dying, just like a microwave oven does. Much heavier and often as expensive as a good router. I've never had a radio in an router go bad, Two or three decent years from a router these days is a good run, although many run them much longer; the radios do get weaker over time. If the dropping wasn't going on before you upgraded, direct some attention to the SSID and professional settings, covered in various threads.
I hope this was more directed, and helps; good luck.
 
And yet another humble apology, too many hours spent on projects the past month. I did belately note yours' is an N66. With router prices dropping this shopping season, now is a perfect time and in your situation, the best of all reasons to upgrade to a new and more powerful Asus A/C router.
 

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