AX86S - two different spec power adapters from two sealed routers. Only keeping one, but which PSU to choose?

[L&LD]

@Movisman, yes, the defaults are where you should start. But I wouldn't be in test mode extensively just at those defaults (some are just wrong).

The following links may be useful to you getting started out.

The 'defaults', are only really default, only after flashing the firmware you want to use and then following the WPS Button reset method for your router as outlined in the link below (at a minimum... sometimes, it is beneficial to do multiple resets and different kinds of resets too, WPS Button, Reset Button and via the GUI, for example, to fully reset a specific unit. If you intend to run RMerlin firmware, flash it right away and do your testing with it from the start. Short of a (suspected) hardware failure, I don't believe there is anything useful to be gained by testing 'stock' firmware for any length of time first. You don't learn to ride a bike by eating Cheezies.

[Wireless] ASUS router Hard Factory Reset | Official Support | ASUS Global


Follow the link below to what are best practices collected from these forums and what are what I consider the 'real' defaults, at least to begin your testing with. Along with a full reset, this puts the router into a good/known state.

Fully Reset / Best Practice Setup / More

Also, note that there are a few (many?) options that don't get turned off fully when you toggle them on/off. Leaving an option alone may not be the same thing as toggling it on, then off again. While you can search on how to actually disable that function you tested, it is faster to simply do a full reset again (at least while you're in testing mode). And, you'll have the confidence to know after that full reset that you didn't mess with any other such 'sticky' toggles within the menu too.


The following links may also be useful to you too.

Almost all L&LD Links

About L&LD

 

[Movisman]

I've never had an issue with WAN DHCP with any of the VM Hubs. However, when changing routers (and the Hub is in modem mode) you often have to power off the new router and Hub for 10 minutes or more so that VM's equipment can disassociate the MAC address of your old router. Then turn everything back on and your router's new MAC address will give you a new public IP address. You only need to do that once for a new router.

Thanks. Well hopefully the process I went through last night has done the trick. I didn't leave the modem powered off though.

I can easily power both down later in the evening for an hour or more if I experience issues, but I think it should be ok.

Do you find during a reboot cycle, it is better practice to get the modem rebooted first and back online before starting the router - or does it not matter? Can you just reboot them in any order/same time/whatever and they will sort themselves out?

 

[Movisman]

@Movisman, yes, the defaults are where you should start. But I wouldn't be in test mode extensively just at those defaults (some are just wrong).

The following links may be useful to you getting started out.

The 'defaults', are only really default, only after flashing the firmware you want to use and then following the WPS Button reset method for your router as outlined in the link below (at a minimum... sometimes, it is beneficial to do multiple resets and different kinds of resets too, WPS Button, Reset Button and via the GUI, for example, to fully reset a specific unit. If you intend to run RMerlin firmware, flash it right away and do your testing with it from the start. Short of a (suspected) hardware failure, I don't believe there is anything useful to be gained by testing 'stock' firmware for any length of time first. You don't learn to ride a bike by eating Cheezies.

Thanks for that!

I actually did use the WPS method for a full factory reset after updating the firmware from stock last night, which I found via one of your posts on here.

As I haven't changed anything much on the settings front, my likely next move is to get Merlin on there asap (as I need it anyway for my plans with the VPN director). I will then do another factory reset via WPS once Merlin is installed, and get to work from there.

Thanks for the tip re: sticky toggles, that is good to know.

 

[ColinTaylor]

Do you find during a reboot cycle, it is better practice to get the modem rebooted first and back online before starting the router - or does it not matter? Can you just reboot them in any order/same time/whatever and they will sort themselves out?

It really doesn't matter what order you do it in. But if you leave the router turned off for a couple of minutes while the Hub is booting up when you do eventually turn the router on you will get a less "noisy" syslog. i.e. there won't be lots of "restarting WAN" type messages while it waits for the Hub to come online.

Contrary to the previous poster's advice there is value in testing (maybe only for a week) stock firmware before going to Merlin's firmware. I did this when I setup my new router last year and by going through that process I was easily able to identify some wireless issues that were present in the current Merlin release that weren't present in the stock firmware. It would be over 6 months before Merlin released a new firmware that fixed those problems.

 

[Movisman]

It really doesn't matter what order you do it in. But if you leave the router turned off for a couple of minutes while the Hub is booting up when you do eventually turn the router on you will get a less "noisy" syslog. i.e. there won't be lots of "restarting WAN" type messages while it waits for the Hub to come online.

Contrary to the previous poster's advice there is value in testing (maybe only for a week) stock firmware before going to Merlin's firmware. I did this when I setup my new router last year and by going through that process I was easily able to identify some wireless issues that were present in the current Merlin release that weren't present in the stock firmware. It would be over 6 months before Merlin released a new firmware that fixed those problems.

Thanks a lot. Yes good advice booting the hub up ahead of the router as a general practice.

Due to a bit of a lack of time at the moment, I will probably end up running the stock firmware for a week or two anyway, so that'll give me chance to do a bit of testing and see how it performs in daily use. I should then have a good idea of what's what before I try Merlin's firmware. I can then see if there are any issues present which weren't there when running stock, like you say.

Cheers

 

[follower]

Hi all!

I recently picked up an RT-AX86S on Amazon Prime day (here in the UK). However, when it arrived, although the router works, there was something vibrating inside when you touch the bottom of the casing. It was almost as if one of the internal components was touching/rubbing against the inside of the case creating a very slight vibrating/rattle noise. It was quite odd. Anyway, I organised Amazon to replace it.

Yesterday, the replacement arrived, this one feels solid. I have not set it up yet though.
However when unboxing, I immediately noticed a big difference between the power adapters when compared to the initial router I received.

One is a wall wart, rated at 12v, 3.0A, 36W output, brand "APD". It has slide/clip on plugs for UK and EU. Straight adapter barrel type.

The other is a power brick type, rated at 19.5v, 2.31A, 45W max output, brand "AcBel". It has separate leads for UK and EU. Right angled adapter barrel type.

I have attached some images of both types of plug to demonstrate.

On the back of the router itself, it suggests it is happy with either spec, as it says "Input: 12V 3A / 19.5V 2.31A".

The only other differences I can find packaging wise, is that the router supplied with the power brick, shows the firmware version on the box, whereas the other one supplied with wall wart doesn't. Hardware revisions are the same, as is manufacturing year. All made in China.

I will be shortly sending back the 'damaged' router, but I can, in theory, choose which PSU to keep.

Is someone on here knowledgeable about the different PSU types and would recommend one over the other?
Seeing as I have the opportunity to choose, I thought it was worth asking the community for some input and I can keep the best/preferred/most reliable/most recent type - if there is any obvious reason to keep one over the other.

Thank you!

Recent AX86U Pro Adapter Info.

My recent AX86U Pro from Amazon. 1. Adapter: 12V 3A. 2. Router back. RT-AX86U Pro: Present AX86U Pro comes with '12 V with max.3 A'. Following adapters are compatible. 19 V with max. 2.37 A current / 19.5 V with max. 2.31 A current or 12 V with max.3 A current / 19.5 V with max. 2.31 A...

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