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Broken power button

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This just happened to me!... my ASUS RT-AC66U power button will not stay in... it keeps popping out. So I had it duct taped... lets see how it last... if the tape won't hold I will try sticking a toothpick next. This router is about 2 years old.

Now I understand why some devices nowadays don't come with power button.
 
I suggest this solution.
The power button came in due to some regulation requirement.
Mechanical parts such a good electrical switch, with a reasonable number of cycles do cost relative much money. If left to the manufacturers I assume they would leave the switch out.
 
Me, me, me too! My RT-AC66U's power button has just broken! It doesn't stick anymore!
Don't worry, I suspect that all or most RT-N66U and RT-AC66U models in the world with this type of switch will end like yours (and mine).
The solution is still here.
 
Had this same issue with my RT-N66U. I used the provided fix in this thread to remove the spring from the power switch, as tape would only hold it a week or so.

ASUS should recall/replace these as I may have toggled this power switch on and off less than 5 times in the years I have had it. It should NOT WEAR OUT, especially when it quit staying in the ON position without touching it! I hope the rest of the components in the router are not this cheaply made!

Tom
 
I signed up specifically so I could address this issue.

I honestly don't know why they even bother to put a power switch on a consumer router, just unplug the thing. That's beside the point, though. Good news, your $200 brick can be debricked with just a little work, took about 5 minutes.

1. Remove the rubber feet from the bottom of the unit
2. under the feet, you will find screws, remove those. Note: doing so will void your warranty, but that isn't worth anything right now anyway.
3. Using a flat screwdriver, butter knife, sharpened penny, or any other thin, yet stiff, blade, pry the top away from the base. There are several catches along the edge, just pry them up and they will pop loose.
4. Remove the power switch button. It is sticking out, so you should be able to grip it with some pliers to remove it.
5. With the button and top removed, you can see the spring on the switch which is held on with a small piece of metal. Using a pair of pliers, remove the metal by pulling straight up. It is actually a small c-clip with the sole function of retaining the spring.
6. Remove the spring. You may need to remove the board from the base to do so.
7. With the spring removed, you can simplpy press the switch in and it will stay on.
8. Put it all back together. Good as used.

Game On

-Lonesouth
 
I signed up specifically so I could address this issue.

I honestly don't know why they even bother to put a power switch on a consumer router, just unplug the thing. That's beside the point, though. Good news, your $200 brick can be debricked with just a little work, took about 5 minutes.

1. Remove the rubber feet from the bottom of the unit
2. under the feet, you will find screws, remove those. Note: doing so will void your warranty, but that isn't worth anything right now anyway.
3. Using a flat screwdriver, butter knife, sharpened penny, or any other thin, yet stiff, blade, pry the top away from the base. There are several catches along the edge, just pry them up and they will pop loose.
4. Remove the power switch button. It is sticking out, so you should be able to grip it with some pliers to remove it.
5. With the button and top removed, you can see the spring on the switch which is held on with a small piece of metal. Using a pair of pliers, remove the metal by pulling straight up. It is actually a small c-clip with the sole function of retaining the spring.
6. Remove the spring. You may need to remove the board from the base to do so.
7. With the spring removed, you can simplpy press the switch in and it will stay on.
8. Put it all back together. Good as used.

Game On

-Lonesouth
Brilliant, although it looks familiar ;)
The power switch was demanded by the certifying authorities some time ago, I anyway agree a power switch makes no sense in theses boxes.
 
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Just happened to mine.

Wondered what was happening but a quick search revealed many in the same boat.

£150 router, wow.
 
Asus defenitely did not do Ikea-testing :p

I saw a video a few years ago on Engadget showing how HP (if I remember correctly) tested their computers. One of the tests involved a robotic arm pressing on the eject button of the DVD drive a few thousand times to test its durability.
 
My router is on 24/7, 365 days a year. Most electronic devices in my house stay on standby mode. Of course it uses some fraction of power meaning some $$ but Turning every thing off and on too frequently may increase a chance of shortening the life of any device. Never experienced button failure or such. I get an impression consumer products are designed to fail usually after warranty periods. Even automobiles, appliances. It looks that way to me at least. That is why if I home brew some thing small or big I never choose to use consumer grade parts/component. Most house have GFCI wall outlet. They are to last for 10 years like smoke detectors. I only install industrial/hospital grade GFCI unit in my house.Same with even small screws.

As a side story, last summer our Carrier house A/C outdoor unit quit running. I took out the run caps. GE brand made in China! I replaced it with Amrad brand true made in USA one which will last longer. ESR reading of this new cap. was very good compared to Chinese made El Cheapo one.
 
I saw a video a few years ago on Engadget showing how HP (if I remember correctly) tested their computers. One of the tests involved a robotic arm pressing on the eject button of the DVD drive a few thousand times to test its durability.
Where are the old days (1960/1970s) with car test TV programs.
In the Netherlands they had a weekly TV program with a standard test cycle for new cars (think of the VW Beetle kind of cars). Testing water-tightness in a large shower, testing cold start after a night in a freezer, testing the number of standard suitcases fitting in the luggage compartment, testing the brakes, testing behavior on bumpy roads, testing head room and knee space.
The differences between many cars where considerable (yes many leaked or didn't start in the cold).
It is anyway frustrating to find those inferior parts like a power-switch, I suggest:

images
 
Just want to thank all the regulars for posting solutions here.

I might have used the power button 3 or 4 times in the last several years that I've owned this thing, and today it just had enough. Hot glue worked for a quick fix. If that fails I will follow the instructions to remove the spring.

Thanks again!
 
Just want to thank all the regulars for posting solutions here.

I might have used the power button 3 or 4 times in the last several years that I've owned this thing, and today it just had enough. Hot glue worked for a quick fix. If that fails I will follow the instructions to remove the spring.

Thanks again!

UPDATE:

Hot glue fix didn't make it through the night. Today I popped open the case and removed the spring as detailed in the directions above.
 
Crazy glue worked for me. I had a 66u do the same thing thankfully it breaks and doesn't leave it in a state you couldn't turn it on. I just unplug adapter to cycle power now.
 
Just happened to me on my 3 year + 8 day old AC66U. I didn't even realize the thing HAD a power button (i.e., the button's never been used). I guess I'll follow some of the instructions here, rip the thing apart, remove the power button spring, and see what happens.

EDIT: Took me about 10 minutes (Philips Head screwdriver and a butter knife). Note that the 4th screw is covered with a piece of paper. I didn't realize that screw was actually there until the top wouldn't pry off. Just shoved the screwdriver through it, removed the screw, and the top pried off without problem).

Thanks for the information.
 
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My RT-N66U switch just broke like that about 2 months ago.(or whenever the time I post to ask about the SD card slot inside)
I just open the case, take out the board, and remove the switch physically and permanently solder the connections to ON state.
You'll have to remove the switch to be able to permanently solder the connections... because the switch when in off state does some grounding to drain capacitors or something. so if you just solder the connections without removing the switch the device would not turn on.

The switch (DPST) is cheap POS that breaks after you press it so many times... definitely not ment for longivity. It's not the spring, but the plastic part of the latch inside broke... removing the spring only prevent it from bouncing back to off state, It works sort of, if you are into the quick fix.
 
I honestly don't know why they even bother to put a power switch on a consumer router, just unplug the thing. h
I wouldn't buy a router WITHOUT a mechanical powder switch! Plugging & unplugging coaxial plugs is lame. It's FAR esier to flick a toggle or push a button than to pull that plug, then try to find the jack to plug it back in.

Anyone know if they are using the same defective switch on their newer routers?
 

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