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Cannot access 10.0.0.1 from PC

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jca001

New Around Here
Hello:

First a little history.

Comcast forced me to replace my cable modem with a TC8305C because the one I had was end of life. This one does VOIP, 4 port router and Wi-Fi. The router LAN address is 10.0.0.1 and does NAT by default. This caused problems with my RT-N16 router that was also doing NAT. Things on the RT-N16 router thought the WAN address was 10.0.0.2, which is true as far as the RT-N16 is concerned, but is not my real WAN address. On the TC8305C it is 50.X.X.X which can be seen by connecting to 10.0.0.1, admin.

I was able to put the TC8305C in bridge mode and the the RT-N16 WAN address was 73.X.X.X and things worked fine, well except ever since I replace the cable modem DNS look ups take a long time some times and FireFox shows connecting for a long time a lot. Then everything will be fine for a while and then the slowness again.

I was able to connect to 10.0.0.1 to check the TC8305C status.

So i bought a RT-N66U and loaded asuswrt-merlin 376.49_5 thinking this may help the over performance The WAN address is 73.X.X.X and the LAN is 192.168.1.X.

Well it appeared to help to begin with and then things slow down again, DNS look ups and establish connections. If I run any speed test, it takes a while sometimes to get started, but the DL speed is 30 and UL speed is 6.


Now the problem in the title:

So I tried to connect to 10.0.0.1 to check if the TC8305C was showing any problems, but I cannot. It is as if the RT-N66U is just dropping the request because my browser does not show any error, just sets spinning the busy indicator on the tab saying connecting and the status at the bottom left shows waiting on 10.0.0.1, Firefox browser.

I have read some comcast forums about making sure to disable IP6 on the TC8305C, but I cannot access to check.

Another things that is odd to me is if I do a tracert -d comcast.net form my PC it shows the following:
192.168.1.1
10.0.0.1
Timed out
68.85.172.165
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

If I ssh into the RT-N66U and run traceroute -n comcast.net, it shows the following:
10.0.0.1
73.207.36.1
65.85.172.165

The 73.207.36.1 times out on the PC, but on the RT-N66U it does not and is the default on the RT-N66U.

So it would appear there is some routing to 10.0.0.1 and I think it is odd that the WAN address on the R-N66U is 73.X.X.X, but yet it first goes through 10.0.0.1, then to 73.207.36.1.

Any help on getting access to 10.0.0.1 so I can check the TC8305C status and if anybody else has somewhat the same configuration and if they had any problems and what they did to resolve them would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
You have to connect directly to the TC8305C to be able to access it.

Or, use a 10.x.x.x subnet for your RT-N66U network instead of 192.168.x.x.
 
Thanks for the reply.

When I was using the RT-N16 it was running DD-WRT and using 192.168.1.X on the LAN side and I was able to access 10.0.0.1 from my PC which had an IP Address of 192.168.1.101.

I know there are differences between the firmwares and was why I gave the history, which looking back I did not state anything about DD-WRT.

So is there a setting (iptable, etc) that will allow a device with a 192.168.1.X IP Address to directly access or route to a 10.0.0.X IP Address?

It would seem things are accessing 10.0.0.1 to get out to the internet based on the tracert and traceroute information I provided.

Thanks.
 
Don't know how to configure that except as already stated.

But it is working as expected because a router shouldn't route through the WAN port for a private address such as 10.x.x.x.
 
Try and configure a static route.....go to LAN/Route page

Network/Host IP = 10.0.0.1
Netmask = 255.255.255.255
Gateway = 0.0.0.0
Metric = 0
Interface = WAN

Make sure you click the '+' to add the route and the radio button to Enable static routes before clicking Apply.
 
Thanks for the information about setting up a static route.

But it does not look like I will be needing that now. I have been doing more research and per some forums it seems the modem/router does not work very good in bridge mode.

So I did a factory reset on the the modem/router and it gets an IP Address of 50.X.X.X and the LAN side is 10.0.0.X. I set up a reserved DHCP of 10.0.0.2 for my router, the modem/router is 10.0.0.1. This seem to be working OK even with the double NATing.

I have a DDNS service running on a Synology NAS which is behind the double NATing, but still identifies the correct internet IP Address. Therefore I configured the modem/router to specify the RT-N66U's IP Address in the DMZ which will make it look like it is the one on the internet as far as the firewall and passing all ports through.

I thought from my PC things that check for the Internet IP Address would show 10.0.0.2, but one I have check shows the 50.X.X.X IP Address.

I also have to use a VPN to connect to my work network and it seems to work fine behind the double NATing.

This is not the way I would really like to have everything configured, but it seems to be working fine now, so until I can figure a better way to do things this will have to do for now. I will run some speed test and some other things to see if the double NATing causes any problems.

Thanks again for the help.
 
Glad you've got it working with the double-NAT, but as you say, this is really not optimal and way more complicated than it needs to be.

Ordinarily, this is an easily solved issue: With any other "Gateway" device provided by a cableco, you'd either go into the settings of the cable modem/router/wifi combo device and change its settings to turn NAT to "off" and put it into "bridge" mode (and also turn off DHCP and DHCPv6 and firewalling) and let your RT-N16 and/or RT-N66U handle NAT, routing and firewalling.

But you apparently cannot do that with the Technicolor TC8305C. I've read the manuals for this device (such as they are...you can find them here: http://setuprouter.com/router/technicolor/tc8305c/manuals.htm, and sadly, there's apparently no way to get into those settings unless you can somehow implement a command line interface for the device...which is way more work that it's worth. You cannot access that aspect of the device though through it's GUI.

I'd suggest calling Comcast and getting a different device from them, i.e., just get a stand-alone cable modem (unless you have phone service also in which case you'll need something that's on their approved list where you can turn off the wireless radio, put it in bridge mode, and let your RT-N16 handle everything. I know that Comcast allows users to install the Arris SB56183 and SB6141 cable modems, so you might want to consider buying one or the other depending on your speed tier (you'll need the SB6183 which is a 16x4 in order to get speeds above 150Mbps since that requires 16 bonded 256QAM download channels). Here's a link to all of the approved devices that they allow; some they will lease to you, others you can buy: http://mydeviceinfo.comcast.net/

The problem with the Technicolor TC 3805C you're using is that not only can't you change the NAT'ing and DHCP, you also can't even turn off the damn wireless radio on it. It's actually totally unacceptable for use with any sort of advanced router unless you want to run your RTN16 and/or RTN66U as Access Points only.

Really, the hassles you're going through just to configure things really isn't worth it. Just get a different cable modem from Comcast, or buy your own and use it instead of theirs. No reason to simply take what they're giving you....you can demand better.
 
Last edited:
Jegesq:
If you know comcast, you know how hard they are to deal with. I had an old DOCSIS 2 modem for data and voice with no router. The battery died and they wanted me to pay to replace it, which I thought was wrong since I was renting the modem. So I did nothing for about 4 months. Then I got an email and vmail because they called when I was not home, telling my modem had reached its end of life and a new one would be sent to me free after I went to a URL and entered some information. So I did and waited several weeks and no new modem. So I chatted with them on-line and and the tech put the request in again. I told the tech several times I wanted a data and voice mode with no router. He added a note. He also told me I would have to take the old mode to one of the service centers which none are near me and when I have gone to one of them I had to stand in line for over 30 minutes. I told him that and he said I could drop it off at a FedEx store with a printed shipping label they would provide that would be billed to me for $9. I complained, but my time was worth more than that to have to stand in line at one of their service center.

But typical of comcast I received a modem with a router. I chatted on-line with a tech again and their solution was to go to a service center and exchange it for a modem without a router. I did not want to waste my time doing that so I replaced my end of life modem with the one they sent.

All along I had been thinking about buying my own modem anyway to eliminate the $7 a month rent, but I had just not acted on it. I have been testing a VOIP service with another provider and plan to port my number and drop the voice part from comcast triple play. I have not done that yet either because I need to call comast to see how much my bill will change by switching from the triple play to the double play and returning the modem.

Mean while I had ordered a SB6141 that arrived yesterday but I do not want to swap it out until I get my number ported because it does not support voice. I could have bought a SBXXXX that does, but then I would only save the $7 a month and would have had to pay almost half again as much for it.

PS: Just for grins I hooked up another RT-N16 behind my RT-66U just to see if triple NATing would work and it does. I have not done much testing though.

Internet 50.X.X.X [cable modem, 10.0.0.1] --- 10.0.0.2 [RT-N66U, 192.162.1.1] --- 192.168.1.200 [RT-N16, 10.10.10.1] --- 10.10.10.100 [PC].
 
Just a follow up on some of my test. As I stated earlier my Company VPN works fine through the double NATing. I did sveral speed test from different URL and selecting different server too, and all show between 28-31 DL and 4-6 UL speeds.

If anybody can think of some other test I should do let me know.
 
In my experience, I could not assign 10.0.0.1 as the LAN address of a router (inherited subnet... not my choice).

Every time I did, I lost access to the router... it seems like some kind of "black hole" in the routing/firewall/iptables.

At the time I didn't have much time to mess around so I ended up using 10.0.0.250 as the router's address and everything seemed to work.
 

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