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CAT5e or CAT6 cable to connect Patch Panel to Switch

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networking

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Hey there,

I'm currently expanding my home network into one that will now use a 48-port patch panel and a 48-port POE switch (Cisco Catalyst 2960-S), instead of multiple 5/8-port switches, and various routers.

Having already installed solid copper CAT6 cables that run from all of the bedrooms, office etc., to the basement (where the patch panel and switch are located)...I will be terminating the ends of these CAT6 cables with CAT6 keystone jacks, that will be inserted into the patch panel ports.

The question/confusion I have is, which cable type I should use for the short patch cords that will connect each of the patch panel ports to the respective/corresponding switch port?

I currently have both cable types i.e. CAT5e as well as CAT6 (so I could use the one that is suggested/recommended)...but I do have to purchase the RJ45 terminators, and that's why I need to know which cable is best to use, and accordingly I will purchase the appropriate connectors.

Another question I have is (and I think I already know the answer...but I'd like to hear from you experts): is it better to use punch-down keystone jacks in the patch panel...or is it better to use the female/female couplers...and terminate the cable ends with regular RJ45 terminators?

Thanks.

Gerard
 
Hey there,

I'm currently expanding my home network into one that will now use a 48-port patch panel and a 48-port POE switch (Cisco Catalyst 2960-S), instead of multiple 5/8-port switches, and various routers.

Having already installed solid copper CAT6 cables that run from all of the bedrooms, office etc., to the basement (where the patch panel and switch are located)...I will be terminating the ends of these CAT6 cables with CAT6 keystone jacks, that will be inserted into the patch panel ports.

The question/confusion I have is, which cable type I should use for the short patch cords that will connect each of the patch panel ports to the respective/corresponding switch port?

I currently have both cable types i.e. CAT5e as well as CAT6 (so I could use the one that is suggested/recommended)...but I do have to purchase the RJ45 terminators, and that's why I need to know which cable is best to use, and accordingly I will purchase the appropriate connectors.

Another question I have is (and I think I already know the answer...but I'd like to hear from you experts): is it better to use punch-down keystone jacks in the patch panel...or is it better to use the female/female couplers...and terminate the cable ends with regular RJ45 terminators?

Thanks.

Gerard
Actually my cable ends are already terminated with RJ45 terminators...which means that I will have to waste/cut those off...in order to terminate into punch-down keystone terminators.
 
Actually my cable ends are already terminated with RJ45 terminators...which means that I will have to waste/cut those off...in order to terminate into punch-down keystone terminators.
Then avoid the patch pannel and plug the pre-terminated cables into the switch. Two fewer connections for each cable run and a whole bunch of cables that do not need to be tested!
 
If in doubt then use cat 6 cable. However, if your cable runs are short then you could probably get away with cat5e. I have a similar cable setup with cat 6 fixed wiring and I had a load of cat5e patch cables and those cat 5e cables worked just fine on my gigabit network. If your fixed cables are nearing the maximum length for an ethernet run then you should minimise the number of joins and also use cat 6 patch cables. Each join and non spec length of cables reduces the maximum total allowed length. Having said all that I have no idea what the maximum allowed length for cat 6 at 1 gig is. I did not do the wiring at this house . It was done about 8 years back when the house was built. My guess is that each run in my house would be less than 20 metres. Way less than the maximum for sure. Google or wikipedia can probably tell you what the maximum cable run is. My patch cables now are all cat 6 or better. All from Amazon. Pay a months worth of Amazon Prime, watch their video channel, and get free delivery on their cables. Bob's top tip. If the rj45 sockets are close together THEN DON'T USE AMAZON BASICS patch cables as the plastic coating around the plugs is too wide and you may find that they won't plug to adjacent RJ45 sockets. Even worse, if you force them to fit then you may have an intermittent bug like I had. Bit of a waste of sockets on a switch. Amazon sell quite a few other brands. If your patch cables are a bit congested then you should consider thin cat 6a cables. https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B01BGV2TEG/ Look around, Amazon has a lot of these.
 
@bbunge,

Totally agree with your comment (about two fewer connections, and a whole lotta cables that don't need to be tested)! Not only that...but it obviously also saves me a whole lotta money!

That being said, the problem (on the other hand) is that this option/solution scores negative points in the WAF area, since I have a whole lotta cables sticking out the front of the switch, which honestly looks quite unsightly. I would much rather that that mess be hidden towards the back of the rack, and only have the smaller, neater patch cords show in the front.

Whether or not I do decide to make the change at this time, I'd still be curious to know whether it's better to use CAT5e or CAT6 cables for the smaller patch cords (connecting the patch panel to the switch)...or whether it does not matter i.e. either one is fine. I guess future-proofing is the thing to consider...and therefore it might be best to go with CAT6 from the get-go? Would that make sense?

Thanks.
 
@BobD,

Much thanks for you input!

The cable length that I'll be dealing with is roughly 6 inches (give or take)...only to connect each port on the patch panel, to the same numbered port on the switch...with the patch panel stacked on top of the switch. I understand you mentioned it would be okay to go with CAT5e for this very short run...but I think I'm gonna be going with your other suggestion (if in doubt then use CAT6).

Thanks also for the warning on the Amazon Basics patch cables (being too wide). In any case, I make my own cables (using the bulk cable I have), and seldom if at all purchase terminated patch cords.

I also like your suggestion of paying for a months' worth of Amazon Prime, and enjoying all of the other perks. As it turns out, my daughter pays for AP, and I just piggy-back off of her account (for all my purchases)...and even consume the free videos and music.
 
Hey there,

I'm currently expanding my home network into one that will now use a 48-port patch panel and a 48-port POE switch (Cisco Catalyst 2960-S), instead of multiple 5/8-port switches, and various routers.

Having already installed solid copper CAT6 cables that run from all of the bedrooms, office etc., to the basement (where the patch panel and switch are located)...I will be terminating the ends of these CAT6 cables with CAT6 keystone jacks, that will be inserted into the patch panel ports.

The question/confusion I have is, which cable type I should use for the short patch cords that will connect each of the patch panel ports to the respective/corresponding switch port?

I currently have both cable types i.e. CAT5e as well as CAT6 (so I could use the one that is suggested/recommended)...but I do have to purchase the RJ45 terminators, and that's why I need to know which cable is best to use, and accordingly I will purchase the appropriate connectors.

Another question I have is (and I think I already know the answer...but I'd like to hear from you experts): is it better to use punch-down keystone jacks in the patch panel...or is it better to use the female/female couplers...and terminate the cable ends with regular RJ45 terminators?

Thanks.

Gerard
1. The question/confusion I have is, which cable type I should use for the short patch cords that will connect each of the patch panel ports to the respective/corresponding switch port? : CAT.6
2. is it better to use punch-down keystone jacks in the patch panel...or is it better to use the female/female couplers...and terminate the cable ends with regular RJ45 terminators?: many lines - patch panel, not many lines: coupler or patch panel.

Read this please.

 
Last edited:
turn the switch around. Use a mirror.
infrastructure cabling should not be moved much anyway (solid conductor).
What an excellent idea...to turn the switch around, and use a mirror!!!

Thanks for that suggestion...I think I may just run with that, after all!
 
I like patch panels because they are easy to label and read the label. You can label the cables but it won’t be as neat or readable. That being said if you decide to go directly to the switch and still like aesthetics, I would go with a 1u horizontal cable manager above and below your switch. Will hide your cables and make it easier to work with. If your cables have a lot of extra slack in the rack, get 2u cable managers.
 
It all depends on the bandwidth you want to put on the cable and run lengths. But the cable run will be the slowest item on it. For example, if I have CAT6 cable with CAT5e connectors and jacks, the cable will not pass for CAT6 standards. So if I put a device that needs the full CAT6 capability, it may have lots of losses, whatever that means for the actual use. For home and 1Gig, even cat5e will be more than enough for the vast majority (I'll get blasted for saying this).

If you're still piecing things together, you midas well get everything CAT6 (including patch cords) and have the full CAT6 standard on the runs, whether you actually need it or not. Otherwise, I'd be more concerned with (1) proper installation, (2) best product you willing to pay for. Best product means, Leviton, Ortronics, Panduit, etc. Not the majority of those other brands you see on Amazon.

As for the patch panel. Patch panels are great because it gives you the flexibility to patch around whatever you want. For example, I want to temporarily put bedroom A: Jack #1 to the poe injector (at the comm closet) instead of the switch. Also, if you install true horizontal cabling, the conductors are solid and jacket is thicker making the cable just much more stiff. Terminating to the 110 block at the patch panel will be much better vs. terminating an actual connector to then go into a coupler. But both will work and pass whatever standards (i think). Also, it was mentioned above, those horizontal cabling, once set, you shouldn't be touching it. This is where if you want to move connections around, you touch the patch cords which are much more flexible and durable at the connections since it'll be exposed in the front to being whacked by accident. Also, you don't want to put the strain on your equipment ports if you direct terminated, unless you installed stranded cable to your wall jacks.
 
Thanks @Mokers and @magic!

I think I'm finally convinced to go with a Patch Panel setup...since in any case I did invest in a new Belden 48-port patch panel, and wouldn't want that investment (CAD 65) to be sitting around like a white elephant. I do realize that this change of setup is gonna be additional time and money (CAT6 keystone jacks, CAT6 RJ45 jacks etc.), but I'm sure it will be more satisfying both from an aesthetics, as well as an learning/accomplishment point-of-view.

@Mokers: I don't quite understand the difference between (or purpose for) a 1U vs 2U cable manager...and assuming I do move forward with the patch panel setup, will I still need to get and use one or the other cable manager...and which one?
 
Thanks @Mokers and @magic!

I think I'm finally convinced to go with a Patch Panel setup...since in any case I did invest in a new Belden 48-port patch panel, and wouldn't want that investment (CAD 65) to be sitting around like a white elephant. I do realize that this change of setup is gonna be additional time and money (CAT6 keystone jacks, CAT6 RJ45 jacks etc.), but I'm sure it will be more satisfying both from an aesthetics, as well as an learning/accomplishment point-of-view.

@Mokers: I don't quite understand the difference between (or purpose for) a 1U vs 2U cable manager...and assuming I do move forward with the patch panel setup, will I still need to get and use one or the other cable manager...and which one?
Mostly cosmetic. The cable manager makes it easier to hide the extra length of any cables you may have floating around. with a patch panel and a bunch of really short cables it is not much of an issue. However, if you have a bunch of longer cables, the cable managers provide an easy way to hide the extra cabling. Makes things a bit neater and more accessible.
 
Oh okay, gotcha!

BTW, since I haven't yet decided where to place the rack...I do long lengths of extra cable sitting coiled on the floor beside the rack and just below the ceiling drop area.

I guess the cable manager will also help with strain relief...correct?

So, should I be getting a 1U or a 2U cable manager?

Thanks
 
Cable managers are both cosmetic and purpose. Whether it be 1U or 2U is really up to you. How much space you can afford to give up, the look you want, how much slack you trying to hide. For me, I didn't have much space to give up so I decided on a lacer bar instead. As for slack, I was planning to buy patch lengths pretty close to what i need and put the slack off to the side of the rack or something as it's still a work in progress. So I keep the front as clean as possible.

I'm not sure if I'm on the same page as you and Mokers but the slack I'm talking about are the patch cord slack. Sounds like the one OP is talking about are the horizontal ones (from rack to jacks)?.

If you still haven't bought patch cords, I see a lot of ppl placing the switch and patch panel right up/down from each other and they get the really short patch cords so it makes once nice "u" bend into the ports. No need for any cable managers except for the rear if the patch panel didn't come with any.
 
@BobD,

Much thanks for you input!

The cable length that I'll be dealing with is roughly 6 inches (give or take)...only to connect each port on the patch panel, to the same numbered port on the switch...with the patch panel stacked on top of the switch. I understand you mentioned it would be okay to go with CAT5e for this very short run...but I think I'm gonna be going with your other suggestion (if in doubt then use CAT6).

Thanks also for the warning on the Amazon Basics patch cables (being too wide). In any case, I make my own cables (using the bulk cable I have), and seldom if at all purchase terminated patch cords.

I also like your suggestion of paying for a months' worth of Amazon Prime, and enjoying all of the other perks. As it turns out, my daughter pays for AP, and I just piggy-back off of her account (for all my purchases)...and even consume the free videos and music.
I bought something from Amazon and decided it was OK to get Prime and free expedited delivery. It turned out that the expedited part didn't exist. I tried Prime Video tonight and it was pure crud. I'm in Australia. Might be different in USA.
I used to make my own cables back when using Cat5, 5e but not Cat 6, 6a. Too easy to buy them with free delivery.
 
Cable managers are both cosmetic and purpose. Whether it be 1U or 2U is really up to you. How much space you can afford to give up, the look you want, how much slack you trying to hide. For me, I didn't have much space to give up so I decided on a lacer bar instead. As for slack, I was planning to buy patch lengths pretty close to what i need and put the slack off to the side of the rack or something as it's still a work in progress. So I keep the front as clean as possible.

I'm not sure if I'm on the same page as you and Mokers but the slack I'm talking about are the patch cord slack. Sounds like the one OP is talking about are the horizontal ones (from rack to jacks)?.

If you still haven't bought patch cords, I see a lot of ppl placing the switch and patch panel right up/down from each other and they get the really short patch cords so it makes once nice "u" bend into the ports. No need for any cable managers except for the rear if the patch panel didn't come with any.
Yeah, I will certainly be placing the patch panel right above the switch, with very short "U" patch cords joining the two pieces of equipment.

And yes, the patch panel did not come with a cable manager, and therefore I will probably have to get one to use at the back, to keep the horizontal cables (rack to jack) organized and secure
 
Would this cable manager be a good option?
So now you're looking for cable managers for the rear only? If this is the case, the one you have in the link with the fingers and cover is really meant for the front. Take a look at new patch panels, any brand, the ones with the cable support on the rear. If you want to get cable managers, you'd be replicating that concept. But, depending on your rack, the stiffness of the cable, and how you dress the cable bundles, you may not need any additional support, you might have enough support from the bundle. Ideally, get the one that is meant for your patch panel or a "universal" one for that brand.
 

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