I Love My Brand New Upgraded ASUS Wireless Network!!! (Full Details Inside)

[THRIZZLE]

I wanted to say hello to everyone on SmallNetBuilder.com! This is my first post on the website and I figured I would share my brand new wireless network configuration I put together for my home and PS4.

The last time I upgraded my network was around the release of the PS3 back in 2006, so I figured I was due for an upgrade. My old wireless network consisted of a Motorola Surfboard SB5101U Cable Modem and a Linksys WRT54G2 Wireless Router, connected by a Category 6 Ethernet Cable I had bought at Staples.

I have learned a lot in the past few weeks by reading reviews and threads on SmallNetBuilder.com. After a ton of research, I have created a setup that is perfect for my needs. I chose to go with the best Wireless-N setup I could get my hands on, since the PS4 does not support Wireless-AC. Below is a list of every component that makes up my new wireless network. I want to say thanks to everyone on SmallNetBuilder.com for being such a great community! I couldn't be happier with my new wireless network!!!

1. Motorola Surfboard Cable Modem SB6183 (White / Retail Version) *UPDATE*
2. ASUS Dark Knight Router RT-N66U (Firmware upgraded to version 3.0.0.4.272)
3. ASUS Dual Band Network Adapter EA-N66 (Firmware upgraded to version 1.0.1.8f)
4. ASUS High Gain Dual-Band Antenna WL-ANT157 (Replaced all 3 stock antennas)
5. Rosewill 1 Foot Category 7 Ethernet Cable (Connects SB6183 to RT-N66U)
6. Rosewill 1 Foot Category 7 Ethernet Cable (Connects EA-N66 to PS4) *UPDATE*

My wireless network is in a highly congested environment in the suburbs which contains a ton of activity on the 2.4 GHz band, but almost zero activity on the 5 GHz band. My wireless network is located right in the middle of my house on the top floor. I used my knowledge gained on SmallNetBuilder.com to get the most out of my new wireless network!

First, I replaced all three of the stock antennas on the RT-N66U with three of the WL-ANT157 high gain / dual band antennas to extend my overall range on the 5 GHz band, which really made a great difference. Also, the 2.4 GHz band remained excellent with the new antennas.

Next, I connected my SB6183 to the RT-N66U with a Rosewill 1 Foot Category 7 Ethernet Cable. Then, I scanned my wireless area with the inSSIDer Android App on my Galaxy S4. The high gain antennas gave me a great view of my wireless area in my neighborhood, which allowed me to choose the least crowded 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz channels for my wireless network.

The least crowded channel on the 2.4 GHz band was channel 11. On the 5 GHz band, the only channel that never picked up any kind of outside signal was channel 157. I also made sure I assigned separate SSID numbers for the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands in order to avoid any possible confusion.

Once I had my channels selected, I logged into the GUI on the RT-N66U to adjust my settings and update the firmware. Once I updated the firmware to version 3.0.0.4.272, I selected the N-only and 20 MHz options for the 2.4 GHz band. Next, I selected N-only and 40 MHz on the 5 GHz band in order to get the maximum speed and connectivity for my EA-N66, which I set up next.

I started by updating my EA-N66 firmware to version 1.0.1.8f. Then, I connected the EA-N66 to my 5 GHz / 40 MHz band. Once it established a connection in Ethernet Adapter Mode, I tested it out on my laptop. I was shocked at how well the EA-N66 worked! I was getting the same speed as if I were connected directly to my modem!

Next, I went downstairs to connect the EA-N66 to my PS4 with a Rosewill 1 Foot Category 7 Ethernet Cable. I was blown away at the results! I get triple the speed, compared to when I connected my PS3 wirelessly with the Linksys WRT54G2 Wireless-G Router. I made sure I only connected my PS4 to the 5 GHz band, since it provides the best signal for online gaming and movie streaming.

I left all of my other devices on the 2.4 GHz band, which works great for web surfing and checking email. ASUS has really impressed me with this entire setup! I really doubt I will ever buy networking components from any other company in the future. Thanks for reading!!!

 

[njj042]

Hi can you add a picture of your router setup please?

 

[edsyl]

Do you have any feel for whether all 3 antennas need to be replaced or would one or two be enough?
Thanks
Ed

 

[THRIZZLE]

Do you have any feel for whether all 3 antennas need to be replaced or would one or two be enough?
Thanks
Ed

I had originally only bought one WL-ANT157 to replace the middle antenna. I definitely saw improvement in my signal depending on which way the antenna was facing, especially on the 5 GHz band. This showed me that it was actually working! I then purchased another WL-ANT157 and was going to replace both outside antennas with the WL-ANT157 antennas and use the stock antenna for the middle. Before I even changed my antennas around again, I purchased a third WL-ANT157 and figured I would just replace them all.

I couldn't resist the temptation to use three WL-ANT157 antennas. I felt like I would be missing out by not replacing them all, since they work so well. I am sure you would be fine just replacing the middle antenna. It all depends on how much you want to spend and if you handle the constant question in your mind, "What would happen if I replaced all three antennas?" Obviously, I couldn't handle asking myself that question.

I now have full signal throughout my entire house. I even get good signal in my basement, which is two stories down from my RT-N66U. The weird thing is, I get the best signal when all of the antennas are facing side to side, not straight ahead. Trust me, I performed multiple adjustments, followed by speed tests in every corner of my house, to confirm the best position of the antennas. I guess it makes sense since my RT-N66U is in the middle of my house on the top floor. The two outside antennas are angled at a 70 degree angle in order to cover the lower levels of my house.

I was afraid I would lose signal in the front and back of my house since the antennas are facing side to side, but I still get full signal. My Samsung Galaxy S4 connects to my wifi when I am pulling into the driveway! This leads me to believe that the sides of the WL-ANT157 give off signal too, even though they are only supposed to be directional. If it didn't produce a signal on the sides, I would not have any or very little signal in the front and back of my house. As far as range is concerned, I can connect to my wifi when I am at my neighbors house on either side. I couldn't be happier! I plan on posting pictures of my setup after Labor Day. Stay tuned!

 

[valerima]

Wl- ant157

Hi, Interesting gadget- ASUS High Gain Dual-Band Antenna WL-ANT157

Anyone has more experience with it?

 

[THRIZZLE]

Hi, Interesting gadget- ASUS High Gain Dual-Band Antenna WL-ANT157

Anyone has more experience with it?

Please use the search function or start a new thread!

 

[sm00thpapa]

I use the 40 MHz Channel width on my 2.4 GHz band and it works great at 450 Mbps. If I leave it at 20 MHz it drops to 216 Mbps. So 40 MHz only is what I'm sticking with.

 

[THRIZZLE]

Hi can you add a picture of your router setup please?

Please enjoy the pictures I have added!

 

[DrTeeth]

Those ASUS antennas seem to be very thin on the ground in the UK. They are just what I am looking for.

 

[Asuspimp]

I just wanted to say hello to everyone on SmallNetBuilder.com! This is my first post on the website and I figured I would share my brand new wireless network configuration that I put together in preparation for the PS4 this Fall.

The last time I upgraded my network was around the release of the PS3 back in 2006, so I figured I was due for an upgrade. My old wireless network consisted of a Motorola Surfboard SB5101U Cable Modem and a Linksys WRT54G2 Wireless Router, connected by a Staples Category 6 Ethernet Cable.

I have learned a lot in the past few weeks by reading reviews and threads on SmallNetBuilder.com. After a ton of research, I have created a setup that is perfect for my needs. I chose to go with the best Wireless-N setup I could get my hands on, since the PS4 does not support Wireless-AC. Below is a list of every component that makes up my new wireless network. I want to say thanks to everyone on SmallNetBuilder.com for being such a great community! I couldn't be happier with my new wireless network!!!

1. Motorola Surfboard Cable Modem SB6141 (White / Retail Version)
2. ASUS Dark Knight Router RT-N66U (Firmware upgraded to version 3.0.0.4.272)
3. ASUS Dual Band Network Adapter EA-N66 (Firmware upgraded to version 1.0.1.8f)
4. ASUS High Gain Dual-Band Antenna WL-ANT157 (Replaced all 3 stock antennas)
5. Rosewill 1 Foot Category 7 Ethernet Cable (Connects SB6141 to RT-N66U)
6. Rosewill 3 Foot Category 7 Ethernet Cable (Connects EA-N66 to PS3)

My wireless network is in a highly congested environment in the suburbs which contains a ton of activity on the 2.4 GHz band, but almost zero activity on the 5 GHz band. My wireless network is located right in the middle of my house on the top floor. I used my knowledge gained on SmallNetBuilder.com to get the most out of my new wireless network!

First, I replaced all three of the stock antennas on the RT-N66U with three of the WL-ANT157 high gain / dual band antennas to extend my overall range on the 5 GHz band, which really made a great difference. Also, the 2.4 GHz band remained excellent with the new antennas.

Next, I connected my SB6141 to the RT-N66U with a Rosewill 1 Foot Category 7 Ethernet Cable. Then, I scanned my wireless area with the inSSIDer Android App on my Galaxy S4. The high gain antennas gave me a great view of my wireless area in my neighborhood, which allowed me to choose the least crowded 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz channels for my wireless network.

The least crowded channel on the 2.4 GHz band was channel 11. On the 5 GHz band, the only channel that never picked up any kind of outside signal was channel 157. I also made sure I assigned separate SSID numbers for the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands in order to avoid any possible confusion.

Once I had my channels selected, I logged into the GUI on the RT-N66U to adjust my settings and update the firmware. Once I updated the firmware to version 3.0.0.4.272, I selected the N-only and 20 MHz options for the 2.4 GHz band. Next, I selected N-only and 40 MHz on the 5 GHz band in order to get the maximum speed and connectivity for my EA-N66, which I set up next.

I started by updating my EA-N66 firmware to version 1.0.1.8f. Then, I connected the EA-N66 to my 5 GHz / 40 MHz band. Once it established a connection in Ethernet Adapter Mode, I tested it out on my laptop. I was shocked at how well the EA-N66 worked! I was getting the same speed as if I were connected directly to my modem!

Next, I went downstairs to connect the EA-N66 to my PS3 with a Rosewill 3 Foot Category 7 Ethernet Cable. I was blown away at the results! I get triple the speed, compared to when I connected my PS3 wirelessly with the Linksys WRT54G2 Wireless-G Router. I made sure I only connected my PS3 to the 5 GHz band, since it provides the best signal for online gaming and movie streaming.

I left all of my other devices on the 2.4 GHz band, which works great for web surfing and checking email. ASUS has really impressed me with this entire setup! I really doubt I will ever buy networking components from any other company in the future. Thanks for reading!!!

While the PS4 and XB1 do not do wireless AC,they do have gigabit ethernet ports.These allow you to hook up to a gigabit network wired BUT you have to have gig internet from your ISP.With AC routers they have Gigabit ethernet ports so you can hook them up wired to your PS4 or XB1 to take advantage of the extra speed.If you wanted to get the highest speed possible for your PS4 it would have been a good idea to have gotten an AC router and hook it up wired.That is if you are getting that speed from your ISP.

 

[PrivateJoker]

While the PS4 and XB1 do not do wireless AC,they do have gigabit ethernet ports.These allow you to hook up to a gigabit network wired BUT you have to have gig internet from your ISP.

Well, not exactly just that. Having a gigabit switch & gigabit network adapters on your home devices (or "intra-net") can be helpful if you are doing large file transfers, file backups to a central networked machine or NAS, or media sharing (assuming of course the media store and/or the "heads" that can view it are hardwired).

I have a machine that has a 100Mb ethernet NIC & 1Gb NIC in it. I can do file transfers to/from my Synology NAS (all hardwired through a gigabit switch) about 3-4x faster using the gigabit NIC than if I use the 100Mb one. I could also put an AC wireless adapter on it to connect to an AC AP at high speeds, but it's a desktop machine and having it wired gives me a consistent connection without hogging room on my wifi.

It might be important if you are using the game console as a media streamer, especially if you're streaming video from inside your network. My TiVo Premiere's have built in gigabit and transfers between themselves routinely hit 60-90Mb/s, which still allows the switch to do at full speed and be doing other things with headroom to spare.

It can still be advantageous depending on what you're doing, if you had a slower Docsis 2.0 modem that connected to your router with a 10/100 interface, to still have a gigabit router/switch. It just depends on what you plan to do.

Tim recently touched on why a modern consumer might be satisfied in many situations with a non-gigabit switched router here on the site. Who Says An AC Router Needs Gigabit Ports?


But, heavy media streaming (be it internal, or externally sourced), lots of online game play, etc., might be the exception to that, and also the kind of people who get high end game consoles.

I hope this wasn't too disjointed, I just wanted to clarify that ISP rated internet speeds aren't the sole factor in determining what kind of router and wifi connection are best for you. I can actually maintain my 60Mb/10Mb ISP rated speed at a pretty low wifi signal strength, and the # of people with gigabit home connection is pretty small!

 

[PrivateJoker]

Do you have any feel for whether all 3 antennas need to be replaced or would one or two be enough?
Thanks
Ed

I tested w/ just the center replaced (I had mostly seen pictures and read reviews that illustrated just the center being switched out, but I understand there are people who do all 3).

I regret that I didn't record my measurements for sharing purposes, I just did a day of casual testing and measuring without anticipating a future desire to share the info. Oops!

First, to clarify, I tested on my RT-N66, and Asus seems to claim in its marketing info that the stock antennas are 3/5dBi gain on 2.4/5ghz respectively (though on their own webpage I kind of had a hard time finding it).

The WL-ANT157 is listed at 5/7dBi of gain on 2.4/5ghz respectively on the Asus site.

However you can't just look at those #s and say, "oh, more gain = more power & sensitivity, = success." Though there were definite times I achieved bursts of higher speed, in certain positions in my home, my overall sense was that the coverage was spottier with less distance.

I don't want to get into a giant convo on the basic differences between antenna types, and all that (#1 because I'm absolutely unqualified!) but the WLANT157 has a moderately tight beam path (2.4/5ghz, from Asus link above).

HPBW/horizontal 70°/50°
HPBW/vertical 70°/60°

So you're only going to get those gain #s when you're in those sweet spots. . .and having 3 antennas doesn't mean you can be in the sweet spot of any one of them and you'll get a great signal, the complexities of the beamforming I do not understand, but I would speculate that fastest connections would be formed when achieving roughly equal RSSI from all 3 antennas simultaneously.

So, sometimes (often times?) slightly less gain can yield a faster throughput when the claimed gain is consistent (i.e. the omnidirectional stock antennas).

There are a lot of positive reviews on Amazon for those antennas, how many of those people tested RSSI and throughput in various locations before and after? I don't know, but some are evidently happy with them. Aim one or more at a specific location and you might get a slightly better signal. If you're really in that location a lot, get an ethernet cable.

Hopefully Tim or some fellow hams can correct or simplify any inaccuracies I mentioned, but - be a diligent tester yourself and you'll find what works best for you in your location.

I posted in this thread due to antenna pics & questions, but I'm glad to move it to another thread if more appropriate.

 

[Asuspimp]

Well, not exactly just that. Having a gigabit switch & gigabit network adapters on your home devices (or "intra-net") can be helpful if you are doing large file transfers, file backups to a central networked machine or NAS, or media sharing (assuming of course the media store and/or the "heads" that can view it are hardwired).

I have a machine that has a 100Mb ethernet NIC & 1Gb NIC in it. I can do file transfers to/from my Synology NAS (all hardwired through a gigabit switch) about 3-4x faster using the gigabit NIC than if I use the 100Mb one. I could also put an AC wireless adapter on it to connect to an AC AP at high speeds, but it's a desktop machine and having it wired gives me a consistent connection without hogging room on my wifi.

It might be important if you are using the game console as a media streamer, especially if you're streaming video from inside your network. My TiVo Premiere's have built in gigabit and transfers between themselves routinely hit 60-90Mb/s, which still allows the switch to do at full speed and be doing other things with headroom to spare.

It can still be advantageous depending on what you're doing, if you had a slower Docsis 2.0 modem that connected to your router with a 10/100 interface, to still have a gigabit router/switch. It just depends on what you plan to do.

Tim recently touched on why a modern consumer might be satisfied in many situations with a non-gigabit switched router here on the site. Who Says An AC Router Needs Gigabit Ports?


But, heavy media streaming (be it internal, or externally sourced), lots of online game play, etc., might be the exception to that, and also the kind of people who get high end game consoles.

I hope this wasn't too disjointed, I just wanted to clarify that ISP rated internet speeds aren't the sole factor in determining what kind of router and wifi connection are best for you. I can actually maintain my 60Mb/10Mb ISP rated speed at a pretty low wifi signal strength, and the # of people with gigabit home connection is pretty small!

I didn't say anything about the file transfers and such.My point was that it looked like you wanted the best network for your PS4.Whatever machine you have that does 100mb is not gonna hook up to the PS4 and get it online.If it can then my guess is it will severly bottleneck it.I could be wrong MAYBE.If you can get 1000mb speed without paying whatever your ISP charges for that speed cool but most cases if you are not getting 1000mb then an AC router is pointless.As far as lag,connection,etc. and if you have the speed then an AC router would have been the way to go.They are not that much more than an Nrouter from what I have seen.I paid 150 for my Asus RT-AC66R.Something is wrong if you have a 100mb device doing faster speeds than your gig one.You need to get that checked out

 

[PrivateJoker]

I didn't say anything about the file transfers and such.My point was that it looked like you wanted the best network for your PS4.Whatever machine you have that does 100mb is not gonna hook up to the PS4 and get it online.If it can then my guess is it will severly bottleneck it.I could be wrong MAYBE.If you can get 1000mb speed without paying whatever your ISP charges for that speed cool but most cases if you are not getting 1000mb then an AC router is pointless.As far as lag,connection,etc. and if you have the speed then an AC router would have been the way to go.They are not that much more than an Nrouter from what I have seen.I paid 150 for my Asus RT-AC66R.Something is wrong if you have a 100mb device doing faster speeds than your gig one.You need to get that checked out

I feel like there was a lot lost in translation, and and I also feel like you've tried to use your same solid logic sales pitch to sell me on the extended warranty at best buy recently.

How do we even know you're a real AsusPimp?

PS - thank you for your tip on getting my network looked at, my free advice in return would be to let you know your space bar might need to be checked out. It doesn't seem to ever work after a period is used on your device.

 

[Asuspimp]

I feel like there was a lot lost in translation, and and I also feel like you've tried to use your same solid logic sales pitch to sell me on the extended warranty at best buy recently.

How do we even know you're a real AsusPimp?

PS - thank you for your tip on getting my network looked at, my free advice in return would be to let you know your space bar might need to be checked out. It doesn't seem to ever work after a period is used on your device.

Ok now it seems like you are just lashing out for no reason.I do not work for Asus ,I just like the company.Why would I sell you an extended warranty?Best Buy?What is wrong with you????All I was doing was trying to help you out.

Then you try to be a grammer police?Really?

Dude if you have a 100mb device that runs faster than your gig device then yeah your gig device has problems.Why are you lashing out at me about that??

Good day sir :l

P.S. If you would like to debate this issue further like mature people fine but If you are just going to troll then like I said Good Day

 

[THRIZZLE]

I have the Triple Play from Comcast. It has capped internet speeds of 5 up and 20 down (25 down is the max you can squeeze out). I am currently able to run constant speeds of 4.5 up and 22.5 down. I was running an inconsistent 2 up and 8 down with my old Wireless-G setup, so I am more than happy!

I never use the home phone service that was included in the Triple Play. The only reason I have a home phone is due to the sale price of the Triple Play offered in March of 2013 ($139.99 a month). After my year is up, I might switch back to the Double Play and upgrade my internet to the Blast package which provided speeds of 10 up and 50 down, but that seems like overkill for online gaming, movie steaming, and web browsing.

 

[CooCooCaChoo]

I have the Blast! Comcast Xfinity HSI and it rocks. Much faster than my previous DSL service from AT&T and much cheaper overall as well even though I pay more on my monthly bill.

So much bandwidth I don't know what to do with it.

 

[sm00thpapa]

What do they mean by these antennae are 5 dbi and 7 dbi. Are they 5 or 7 dbi? Makes no sense.

 

[PrivateJoker]

What do they mean by these antennae are 5 dbi and 7 dbi. Are they 5 or 7 dbi? Makes no sense.

Using the same antenna element on different frequencies will affect each band differently, especially when one band's frequency is over double of it's other band.

In my non expert opinion, however, I believe most CE routers antenna/power output gain claims are much more marketing talk than they are actual technical measurements that can be used to compare against other antennas or routers.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antenna_gain

In it's FCC tests the RT-N66U is described as: "Antenna Gain: The maximum Gain measured in fully anechoic chamber is 2dBi or 1.58 in linear scale."

https://apps.fcc.gov/oetcf/eas/repo...me=N&application_id=975566&fcc_id='MSQ-RTN66U

In my limited experience based on other omni-directional microwave freq antennas, I'd say about 2dbi sounds right based on the mass & dimensions of similar antennas w/ RP-SMA & RP-TNC connectors.

@Bonsai, @Stevech, of course @Thiggins and some of the ham radio operators on here are probably better qualified than I to drill in on the specifics.

 

[sm00thpapa]

I contacted Asus and they told that their stock Antennas on the RT-N66U are 3.5 dbi. I was like 3.5 dbi really? Even $40.00 routers come stock with 5 dbi antennas.