I Love My Brand New Upgraded ASUS Wireless Network!!! (Full Details Inside)

[DaveMishSr]

I contacted Asus and they told that their stock Antennas on the RT-N66U are 3.5 dbi. I was like 3.5 dbi really? Even $40.00 routers come stock with 5 dbi antennas.

The important issue is performance. My RT-N66U's were the best Wireless-N routers that I ever used. They blew away 3 of the 4 wireless-N routers I owned at the time that all came with 5 dBi antennae. It wasn't even close with those three. Only the Amped Wireless high-gain router/repeater hung with the RT-N66U's but that unit was transmitting at 2-3 times the power of the N66U's.

 

[PrivateJoker]

The important issue is performance. My RT-N66U's were the best Wireless-N routers that I ever used. They blew away 3 of the 4 wireless-N routers I owned at the time that all came with 5 dBi antennae. It wasn't even close with those three. Only the Amped Wireless high-gain router/repeater hung with the RT-N66U's but that unit was transmitting at 2-3 times the power of the N66U's.

Exactly, antenna gain on its own is not really a helpful measurement. On an array of omni-directional antennas, increased gain does not mean that every device in every direction at every angle to that antenna array now receives a stronger signal. It's more like a lens, focusing more light right in the middle of the beam and illuminating less above and below as a trade off, yet still using the same candlepower of beam in both occasions. High gain antennas, omni-directional, and otherwise, all trade off "beam area diversity" for "power focus" and most of us need beam diversity.

Antenna Patterns and Their Meaning @ Cisco

 

[Jamster001]

I just wanted to say hello to everyone on SmallNetBuilder.com! This is my first post on the website and I figured I would share my brand new wireless network configuration that I put together in preparation for the PS4 this Fall.

The last time I upgraded my network was around the release of the PS3 back in 2006, so I figured I was due for an upgrade. My old wireless network consisted of a Motorola Surfboard SB5101U Cable Modem and a Linksys WRT54G2 Wireless Router, connected by a Staples Category 6 Ethernet Cable.

I have learned a lot in the past few weeks by reading reviews and threads on SmallNetBuilder.com. After a ton of research, I have created a setup that is perfect for my needs. I chose to go with the best Wireless-N setup I could get my hands on, since the PS4 does not support Wireless-AC. Below is a list of every component that makes up my new wireless network. I want to say thanks to everyone on SmallNetBuilder.com for being such a great community! I couldn't be happier with my new wireless network!!!

1. Motorola Surfboard Cable Modem SB6141 (White / Retail Version)
2. ASUS Dark Knight Router RT-N66U (Firmware upgraded to version 3.0.0.4.272)
3. ASUS Dual Band Network Adapter EA-N66 (Firmware upgraded to version 1.0.1.8f)
4. ASUS High Gain Dual-Band Antenna WL-ANT157 (Replaced all 3 stock antennas)
5. Rosewill 1 Foot Category 7 Ethernet Cable (Connects SB6141 to RT-N66U)
6. Rosewill 3 Foot Category 7 Ethernet Cable (Connects EA-N66 to PS3)

My wireless network is in a highly congested environment in the suburbs which contains a ton of activity on the 2.4 GHz band, but almost zero activity on the 5 GHz band. My wireless network is located right in the middle of my house on the top floor. I used my knowledge gained on SmallNetBuilder.com to get the most out of my new wireless network!

First, I replaced all three of the stock antennas on the RT-N66U with three of the WL-ANT157 high gain / dual band antennas to extend my overall range on the 5 GHz band, which really made a great difference. Also, the 2.4 GHz band remained excellent with the new antennas.

Next, I connected my SB6141 to the RT-N66U with a Rosewill 1 Foot Category 7 Ethernet Cable. Then, I scanned my wireless area with the inSSIDer Android App on my Galaxy S4. The high gain antennas gave me a great view of my wireless area in my neighborhood, which allowed me to choose the least crowded 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz channels for my wireless network.

The least crowded channel on the 2.4 GHz band was channel 11. On the 5 GHz band, the only channel that never picked up any kind of outside signal was channel 157. I also made sure I assigned separate SSID numbers for the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz bands in order to avoid any possible confusion.

Once I had my channels selected, I logged into the GUI on the RT-N66U to adjust my settings and update the firmware. Once I updated the firmware to version 3.0.0.4.272, I selected the N-only and 20 MHz options for the 2.4 GHz band. Next, I selected N-only and 40 MHz on the 5 GHz band in order to get the maximum speed and connectivity for my EA-N66, which I set up next.

I started by updating my EA-N66 firmware to version 1.0.1.8f. Then, I connected the EA-N66 to my 5 GHz / 40 MHz band. Once it established a connection in Ethernet Adapter Mode, I tested it out on my laptop. I was shocked at how well the EA-N66 worked! I was getting the same speed as if I were connected directly to my modem!

Next, I went downstairs to connect the EA-N66 to my PS3 with a Rosewill 3 Foot Category 7 Ethernet Cable. I was blown away at the results! I get triple the speed, compared to when I connected my PS3 wirelessly with the Linksys WRT54G2 Wireless-G Router. I made sure I only connected my PS3 to the 5 GHz band, since it provides the best signal for online gaming and movie streaming.

I left all of my other devices on the 2.4 GHz band, which works great for web surfing and checking email. ASUS has really impressed me with this entire setup! I really doubt I will ever buy networking components from any other company in the future. Thanks for reading!!!

Hello Members,

I have the exact same setup and followed your advise on the hardware; thank you for posting by the way. I do lease my modem through Time Warner Cable and pay for their 50/5 speed package. Here is my setup and problems:

Motorola SB6141 (Black; leased through ISP)
Asus RT-N66u Black Knight (Firmware Version: RMerlin 3.0.0.4_374.38_2)
Asus Dual Band Network Adapter EA-N66 (Firmware upgraded to version: 1.0.1.8k)
ORDERED but not received yet - ASUS Antenna WL-ANT157
Rosewill 7 Foot Category 7 Ethernet Cable (Connects SB6141 to RT-N66U)
Rosewill 1 Foot Category 7 Ethernet Cable (Connects EA-N66 to PS3)

I was told by my ISP that the modem is up-to-date on its firmware. I did notice however that the modem is enabled for DHCP. My router is also enabled with DHCP BUT I setup a static IP for the PS3 outside the DHCP pool of 192.168.103.50 to 192.163.100 (PS3 IP 192.168.103.150). Problem? I believe I setup up the static IP in the correct router config page; I set it on the same page for DHCP pool at the bottom of page. I have yet to forward any ports for PS3 and/or games I play.

My problems: Again, I pay for 50/5 and I receive these numbers without issue while connected directly from modem to laptop (using same Cat 7 cables). If I directly connect my PS3 to modem via Cat 7, I am lucky if I hit 8MBps down and 2MBps up. Also, if I connect the Asus N adapter to PS3 and use same Cat 7 with the static IP I assigned on router on the 5Ghz band on the PS3, I still am lucky if I hit 8MBps/2MBps. If I hardwire my ps3 from router using the same Cat 7 cable and assign PS3 the same static DMZ IP I get a moderate to strict NAT type and my speeds are awful. I even tried letting the PS3 use the "Easy" setup selecting a DHCP IP from router and still receive the same NAT type and terrible speeds. Crappy PS3 console?

I setup MAC address filtering for both 2.4Ghz / 20MHz and 5Ghz / 40MHz wireless bands and the only device on the 5Ghz band is the PS3 static IP. I have N devices only selected on both bands. I currently only have my laptop and iPad on the 2.4Ghz band using the MAC filter. Again, I have not setup port forwarding BUT have tried putting my PS3 into DMZ by setting the static IP outside the DHCP pool within the DMZ config page. I do not have QOS enabled.

If I connect my laptop to the 5GHz band using the same ethernet cable to the Asus N adapter, assign the PS3's static IP on the laptop while disabling my laptops internal wifi card, I get the speeds I pay my ISP for. My modem, router, Asus N adapter and ps3 are all located directly below my TV on a TV stand. I have tried hardwiring my PS3 directly to Asus router and continue to only get dramaticly low speeds. Again, if connect PS3 directly to modem I still only get 8MBps down and 2MBps up.

I have tried several different Cat 7 cables with same results. The router performs well with everything EXCEPT the PS3.

Can anyone see a problem I may be missing? I do not understand the terrible speed ratings I receive on my PS3. Any help is greatly appreciated as I have been pulling my hair out and blowing money on fixing this issue.

 

[dsring]

How are you testing the download/upload speeds of your PS3? I have a 100/20 speed package, and the most I was ever able to get with the PS3's speed test was about 10 down / 2 up. You can also check the connection speed through the PS3 Vudu app. That is how I check my connection speed. As long as I am getting speeds that allow for 1080p streaming, I do not worry too much about what the PS3 internet speed test shows.

 

[ikoul]

My experience with the PS3:

The built in speed test is pretty much worthless. I have a 100/20 connection and I've never seen more than 40 down on the test, while other speed tests report the correct numbers.

That said, there seems to be some issue with ethernet link negotiation (at least on the slim PS3). When I forced it to link at 1000BASE-T, it would have terrible throughput. Streaming would work, but only on really low quality. Then I set it back to auto, and it negotiated the gigabit link I originally wanted and everything works great. Might have been fixed in the most recent PS3 firmware, but I figured it was something that might be relevant to you.

 

[Jamster001]

Thank you for your replies.

I do use the PS3's built in speed test and I have read that this was totally unreliable. Although, I thought I should at least see the numbers the OP was seeing; hence we were using the same equipment along with the same ISP plan. I am able to hardwire to router or directly to modem BUT wither way I continue to experience these terrible "rated" speeds. Although, when I connect hardwired to my router, I get either a strict or moderate NAT type. This is only resolved by connecting directly to modem; screwing every other household member out of WiFi.

Are there any changes to be made on the EA-N66 wireless adapter in order to be sure my PS3 is using the N adapter to its full potential? I left everything on this adapter default and only updated to latest adapter firmware. Also, if I choose to use the routers DMZ feature instead of port-forwarding, do I still set a static IP outside the DHCP pool and also enter this IP into the DMZ config page? OR should the DMZ IP be used inside the DHCP pool using one of the available IPs? Finally, is DMZ needed while hardwired from router to PS3 or is a DMZ for wireless connection?

I purchased and installed all this equipment thinking I would receive better speeds using the Wireless N signal instead of using the gigabyte ports on both the rt-n66u and PS3. In order for me to correctly setup a static IP on the RT-N66u, do I need to set it up somewhere else besides the "Manually assign IP around DHCP list (Max Limit: 128)" located at LAN->DHCP Server bottom of config page? OR do I set a static IP on the LAN-Route config page? I was assuming Lan-Route page was just for connecting routers behind the n66u router.

 

[Jamster001]

Oh yea, should both the SB6141 modem AND the n66u router be set to use DHCP? How about UPnP; enabled on modem, router, and PS3???

 

[jlake]

Thank you for your replies.

I do use the PS3's built in speed test and I have read that this was totally unreliable. Although, I thought I should at least see the numbers the OP was seeing; hence we were using the same equipment along with the same ISP plan. I am able to hardwire to router or directly to modem BUT wither way I continue to experience these terrible "rated" speeds. Although, when I connect hardwired to my router, I get either a strict or moderate NAT type. This is only resolved by connecting directly to modem; screwing every other household member out of WiFi.

Are there any changes to be made on the EA-N66 wireless adapter in order to be sure my PS3 is using the N adapter to its full potential? I left everything on this adapter default and only updated to latest adapter firmware. Also, if I choose to use the routers DMZ feature instead of port-forwarding, do I still set a static IP outside the DHCP pool and also enter this IP into the DMZ config page? OR should the DMZ IP be used inside the DHCP pool using one of the available IPs? Finally, is DMZ needed while hardwired from router to PS3 or is a DMZ for wireless connection?

I purchased and installed all this equipment thinking I would receive better speeds using the Wireless N signal instead of using the gigabyte ports on both the rt-n66u and PS3. In order for me to correctly setup a static IP on the RT-N66u, do I need to set it up somewhere else besides the "Manually assign IP around DHCP list (Max Limit: 128)" located at LAN->DHCP Server bottom of config page? OR do I set a static IP on the LAN-Route config page? I was assuming Lan-Route page was just for connecting routers behind the n66u router.

Try Merlin's EM firmware. It's in his beta folder. Or try asus new beta firmware. It's on their website. Reset to factory defaults and reconfigure manually from scratch after switching firmware. Also remove your old/previous wireless profiles and reconnect.

 

[ikoul]

Oh yea, should both the SB6141 modem AND the n66u router be set to use DHCP? How about UPnP; enabled on modem, router, and PS3???

UPnP is often used for NAT traversal. It'll probably help your PS3 get traffic through the firewall without you having to set up the port forwarding manually. So I would enable it wherever you need to and see if it helps. I don't remember having to specifically enable it anywhere; I think it was on by default on my devices and I don't remember having to change anything on my SB6141 to get it working with my router.

 

[Jamster001]

Should DHCP be enabled on both the modem and the router? I would think this would cause problems. THing is though, I cannot disable DHCP on the modem since it is ISP leased. I can however disable it on the routers side but wouldn't I have to give all devices a static IP? Where exactly do I set static IPs for devices on this n66u router? Can I assign static IPs using hardware MAC addresses? Sorry for being such a Noobie.

 

[dsring]

Should DHCP be enabled on both the modem and the router? I would think this would cause problems. THing is though, I cannot disable DHCP on the modem since it is ISP leased. I can however disable it on the routers side but wouldn't I have to give all devices a static IP? Where exactly do I set static IPs for devices on this n66u router? Can I assign static IPs using hardware MAC addresses? Sorry for being such a Noobie.

I also have a SB6141, RT-N66U, and a EA-N66. There is no way to change the settings on the modem. DHCP server should be enabled on the router. 'Enable DHCP Override?' should be set to 'YES' on the EA-N66.

I would also enable UPNP on the router, and it will take care of forwarding all of the necessary ports for the PS3.

 

[THRIZZLE]

I have recently upgraded my modem to the Motorola Surfboard 6183 to take full advantage of Comcast's Blast Internet that was upgraded a few months ago to 105 mbps down and 10 mbps up. I am now able to easily reach over 100 mbps on my 5 GHz band!!! I have also updated my original post to show my most current setup.

 

[jegesq]

It appears you have edited your original post to remove all references to the original modem you had prior to getting the SB6183. So I can't really tell whether what you were using previously was an 8x4 or merely 4x4 or 4x2 modem of some sort. But if you previously had an 8x4 Docsis 3.0 modem, you did not need to upgrade to the Arris-Moto SB6183 because any Docsis 3.0 8x4 modem would be easily capable of achieving the 105Mbps download speed.

But now that you have the SB6183, and are thus ready to get even higher speeds above 150+ once your area is provisioned by Comcast for even higher speed tiers.

I do agree with a couple of others that noted you probably ought to consider upgrading to an AC router as well; your rationale for sticking only with an 802.11n router at this point (i.e., you were on a lower speed tier originally and your stated reasons with your PS3) really no longer apply. If I were you, I'd consider getting an 801.11ac wireless router (either the RT-AC66U or the RT-68P if you can find it at Best Buy) and putting your N66 into AP or Repeater mode in a location closer to your PS so you can at least get the benefit of better than wireless performance from that device by connecting it via LAN to the repeater.

EDIT to ADD: I see from others who had quoted your original first post prior to your recent edits that you previously had the SB6141. Again, that's an 8x4 Docsis 3.0 cable modem, so really switching to the SB6183 just to jump up to 105Mbps down was unnecessary to begin with. I just hope Comcast didn't talk you into leasing the SB6183 for a higher price than they were previously charging you for the SB6141, because if they did, then you're overpaying for what you're getting (in other words the 6141 was fully capable of delivering 105Mbps download speeds). Just sayin'.....

Either way, the SB6183 is a great modem and will provide you with terrific performance, better than any other cable modem I've used. Not a lot of settings to play with (in fact none to speak of) but it just delivers solid performance. I'm using it with a 300/20 package and it never fails to deliver terrific performance.

 

[Deleted member 22229]

Comcast does not lease the 6183 it is a retail modem only at this point. I doubt they ever will as comcast really only leases gateways anymore. But the 6183 is a excellent modem I own one myself since my area is being upgraded to 16 channels on the downstream side.

 

[jegesq]

Comcast does not lease the 6183 it is a retail modem only at this point. I doubt they ever will as comcast really only leases gateways anymore. But the 6183 is a excellent modem I own one myself since my area is being upgraded to 16 channels on the downstream side.

Well, whether they lease one or not, the OP had one (see the first post below his that quoted the original post prior to editing, which shows he had an SB6141). My point to the OP was that the SB6141 was more than adequate to handle the 105Mbps download that he is now getting from Comcast, and whoever told him he needed to go out and spend the $140 that the SB6183 costs at retail misled him. Not that there's anything wrong with the SB6183, I bought one and love it, but I had to go with a 16x4 modem to handle the 300+Mbps that my ISP (TWC) is now providing. In his case though, 105Mbps is typically only 8 256QAM channels bonded (typically 8x4) and that's what the 6141 is made to handle.

Yes, the 6183 is an excellent modem.....if you need and can use all 16 channels. Otherwise, it's grossly overpriced for only using 8 channels bonded, and there are far less expensive options that are just as good, if not better.