Need a new router, was looking at TP Link but now not sure

[slvrscoobie]

Im trying to decide what router to upgrade to:
TP Link Archer C7
ASUS RT-AC66U
Dlink AC1750 868L

I have 17"MBP, 15"MBP, 27" Imac, ATV, 2 iphone, 2 ipad, 2 Dlink wifi cameras

But my current Dlink 655 router just doesnt want to stream from my laptop or imac to the ATV consistently, even though the ATV is wired. Get a lot of drops and disconnects. Also get poor connections on my laptop at a specific spot on my desk in the home office, which is unacceptable. I got a power line set and wired it, now it works fine wired. :/
I use the ipad and iphone on my back patio, where I am able to connect, but get no data. Its probably 40-50 feet through 2 walls.
I dont need AC yet, but figure it will be worth it compared to buying an N router now.
I do use the Dlink cloud for the 2 cameras, and have a Dlink now, so i understand the menus/config, but I dont think the dlink has the best of the 3 in signal quality.

Your thoughts?

 

[microchip]

Definitely avoid the Archer C7 if you have Apple devices. Lots of issues from people with such devices over at the TP-Link forum. TP-Link released a new firmware where they state compatibility is improved for Apple devices but since I don't know any, I can't confirm it's fixed.

I own the AC66U and will highly recommend it. I usually stay away from D-Link for various reasons I had in the past with their routers

 

[azazel1024]

How soon do you need it? They are coming out with a new C8 that has a few extra features and it has been "coming soon" for a little while, so I assume it'll be soon.

 

[slvrscoobie]

Dont need it right away, ive been hearing about how my router sucks all summer from my wife whos home during the summer. Says her Imac get disconnected for 30-60 seconds at a time.
So I would like to get something soon, and would like to stay under $100. I was Ready to buy a Dlink N router, ($50) but then found the AC for 80,and now the archer for 99, followed by the Asus now at $160, always happens. Start with something reasonable and by the time Im ready to buy its 3-4x the price I initially looked at. So it doesnt HAVE to be a AC1750 router, I was just looking at the Edimax BR-6478AC AC1200 which looks good, but no USB :/ not that I need it, but it would be nice to plug in an external drive/usb port or 2.

 

[Trip]

Hi slvr. I know the tendency here seems to try for the silver bullet (not sure as to why... simpler support/single transaction/fewer wall warts?), but how about doing a wired unit with a separate AP? It seems many all-in-ones can be top notch at either one or the other, but seldom both... That figured in, for example, I've had great luck pairing WNR3500Lv2's (~$40) running Tomato (or AdvancedTomato -- nicer GUI) with wireless turned off, just to handle routing/switching/light firewalling, and then whatever AP of choice, be it a brand-name router running stock firmware, DD-WRT, Gargoyle, etc. with DHCP and all packet management turned off, or a slightly more biz-class unit like an EnGenius, etc. All-in, for around $100-150, you've achieved a similar level of capability, but the piecemeal approach often ends up being more upgradable/patchable in the future. Just a thought!

 

[slvrscoobie]

Havent really thought about it like that, but seem much more complicated compared to what I need. I dont need a very robust router. Just a few basic things.
I already have a Fios modem/router, with the wireless and DHCP turned off.
I guess I could just turn off the wireless on the Dlink 655 i have and get a really good AP.
Problem is all the decent AP's are $150+
might as well just replace the router and be done.

 

[stevech]

Havent really thought about it like that, but seem much more complicated compared to what I need. I dont need a very robust router. Just a few basic things.
I already have a Fios modem/router, with the wireless and DHCP turned off.
I guess I could just turn off the wireless on the Dlink 655 i have and get a really good AP.
Problem is all the decent AP's are $150+
might as well just replace the router and be done.

You may know: Any WiFi router can be configured to behave as an AP. This reduces the price.

 

[slvrscoobie]

I Dont know what point you making.

Either way, theres a sweet deal on the Asus AC56U for $90 on newegg, that includes the beam forming (or what ever They call it) which should help with the edges of my coverage.
I dont need the 1750 speed, so the 1200 might be perfect and priced right.

 

[stevech]

I Dont know what point you making.

Point being: WiFi routers are less costly than products marketed as APs, or a multi-function AP/Router/Bridge. That's simply it.

 

[sfx2000]

You missed the one that is probably most relevant to your questions and applications - AirPort Extreme AC, which is something you should seriously consider with your requirements.

sfx

Im trying to decide what router to upgrade to:
TP Link Archer C7
ASUS RT-AC66U
Dlink AC1750 868L

I have 17"MBP, 15"MBP, 27" Imac, ATV, 2 iphone, 2 ipad, 2 Dlink wifi cameras

But my current Dlink 655 router just doesnt want to stream from my laptop or imac to the ATV consistently, even though the ATV is wired. Get a lot of drops and disconnects. Also get poor connections on my laptop at a specific spot on my desk in the home office, which is unacceptable. I got a power line set and wired it, now it works fine wired. :/
I use the ipad and iphone on my back patio, where I am able to connect, but get no data. Its probably 40-50 feet through 2 walls.
I dont need AC yet, but figure it will be worth it compared to buying an N router now.
I do use the Dlink cloud for the 2 cameras, and have a Dlink now, so i understand the menus/config, but I dont think the dlink has the best of the 3 in signal quality.

Your thoughts?

 

[Miyuo]

If you care about the price, TP-LINK is very cheap. But I think Asus and Huawei routers, although expensive, but the coverage and speed are very satisfactory.I have been using the Huawei B880 router for the past couple of years and it has worked great. The range is adequate, I get good signals from all rooms of my house.

 

[Trip]

seem much more complicated compared to what I need.

It's really not. Just wire the AP to your computer, login via web browser at its default IP, change the IP to match your router's subnet, configure SSID, password, etc, then wire it up to one of your router's LAN ports and you're done. Less than 5 minutes usually.

Problem is all the decent AP's are $150+

I don't know if you feel you must have 1750 or 1900, but there are some decent 1200 options there for <$100 (the DAP-1665 being one). Depending on your speed goals, you may want to wire certain things, or perhaps try AV2 powerline if the outlets to be used are on the same breaker.

But if you want to keep things simple, it appears people are having the best luck with the RT-AC68U or the Apple Extreme AC. Best of luck.

 

[slvrscoobie]

I heard the AAE had pretty poor reviews comparably.
If the Asus I bought doesnt work out, maybe Ill spend the coin on the apple and see if it works better.
Decided on the Asus AC56 as it has beam forming, and a coupon on Newegg brought it down to $90 shipped.

 

[stevech]

Apple WiFi! You can purchase better but you can't pay more!

 

[sm00thpapa]

Get the Archer C8.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[sfx2000]

Apple WiFi! You can purchase better but you can't pay more!

Performance/Range in 2.4GHz and 5GHz, along with WAN/LAN routing - pretty much the same as the WRT1900ac - and it's price competitive... ($200USD)

I think many AC1750/AC1900 routers are over-priced - not just Apple or Linksys..

sfx

 

[TonyH]

Hi,
Selecting a router with 3rd party f/w option may be a good idea.
655 was very good router, IMO. I briefly had it when it came out.

 

[stevech]

I think many AC1750/AC1900 routers are over-priced - not just Apple or Linksys..

sfx

Yes, 11ac products are in the traditional early-adopter pricing tier. They probably have the duration of decreasing tiers well planned.