Folks, I'm so tired. I just want a network that works that I don't have to fiddle with weekly. I've been eying the XT8s for a long time and nearly pull the trigger out of desperation but most everyone that has them uses the word I use for my network, annoying. I am really hoping that the ET8s are better.
TL;DR: I want to switch to mesh because of really bad anecdotal experiences with supposedly powerful lone routers. Instead of looking at CPU and RAM, I'm now more interested in what the manuf. claims the network capacity to be. I think I'll be safe if they advertise 100+ devices and since a mesh setup includes 2 routers at a minimum generally, I'm hoping it works. It's going to be either 2xET8 or 2xAsus router in AI Mesh mode. I'm done with solo routers. I also really wanted Wifi 6E because I'd rather not have to hardwire router 2. Hoping the 6E band saturates and allows router 2 to connect at awesome speeds wirelessly.
I'll be watching here for your reviews, etc.
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I'll tell you a bit about what I've gone through. I live in FL. To make the homes here a bit less prone to hurricane damage, newer FL homes are built using brick/cement (at least the main floor). My home was built in 2016 and is no different. The main floor is cement/brick/block, even some parts on the inside and is 2200 sq ft, the top floor is mostly wood or whatever that is called (plaster?) and is also 2200 sq ft. That being said, I've gone through 2 pretty expensive routers that just didn't work the way I want/needed them to. I have an R8000 (Netgear) which did well before we moved into our current home. The main issue I had with that one is that beyond 20ft, the 2nd 5Ghz band would drop to 2Mbps and sometimes, nothing. The router would also crash if not monthly, then weekly at worst. By crash I mean it would drop everything on the 2.4ghz network and nothing could connect unless I power cycled it. It would also sometimes (but much more rarely) happen on the 5ghz band. I thought, well OK, maybe I need something more powerful so I got an Archer 5400 (TP-Link), the same thing. Now, I'm not an advanced or power user but I do know my stuff. I know that in between testing we always want to fac. reset, also after new FW installations. Did all of this, many, many times. My working config. for a long time ended up being a total Frankenstein of a network, the TP-Link as my main router, getting actual internet from a Centurylink Fiber modem. I turned the 2.4 off because it kept crashing (when bad, daily) and just used the 2x5Ghz networks and the 2.4 from a Linksys EA6900 and a mesh Tenda MW6 with 5 nodes. This worked for almost a year. Eventually, the TP-Link got some weird bug where I could not surf many websites, and even after many reboots, power cycles and turning the AV/Malware/Firewall off, it didn't fix it. Equally annoying, it also would drop whenever the Centurylink modem got a different IP. The pickup just wasn't graceful and when I called Centurylink, they verified that setup was fine. It was definitely the TP-Link router. So I took the opportunity to fac. reset and try the main Centurylink router that was given to me (but I'd never used) when I first signed up. Since then I no longer have the issue with having to reboot at all, however, this router is painfully weak. The 2.4 is definitely crashing all the time (as of right now, my iPhone won't/can't connect to it, nor my smart speakers, etc.) and the 5Ghz is weak. I put the TP-Link back in, in bridged mode as well as the Tenda MW6 nodes. Ironically, the Tenda has been the most reliable router in terms of bridging and it is what sustains my 2.4Ghz network.
My network is demanding. At any one time there are over 100 devices connected and at least ~50 or so running in some capacity. As an example. I run a partial smarthome so every bedroom (5) has a wifi light switch. All other main rooms (Kitchen, Family Room, Living Room, Rec. area, etc) have a Wifi or Z-wave light switch as well. This saves a lot of money because I set them to timer shut off automatically and there's the convenience of not having to walk over to turn them off/on, etc and also using motion detectors to turn them on/off. I also have a lot of wifi controlled power outlets. I have 5 cams in the front (n) of my home, 1 on each side (east and west) and 3 facing the yard (s) end. Then I have 4 on the main floor and 2 upstairs. We have 3 smart TVs and then a bunch of Rokus, Apple TVs, Fire Cubes attached to them as well as 3 non-smart HDTVs. There's an Echo Show in every bedroom and one in the main bathroom. There's an Echo Studio in the main bedroom in addition to the Show v3. There are 3 Polk Magnifi Minis (Main bedroom, Living Room, Office) and the Fam. Room has a Vizio Smartcast 5.1 setup. We have a bunch of PCs (at least 4) and laptops (at least 4) and several iPads (3) and phones (5). We also have a lot of Smart bulbs (every lamp [7], the porch [2] and veranda [2]). I'm fairly certain that I'm forgetting stuff too. I think this may be my main problem. So I've decided to go from looking at routers based on CPU and RAM and go for based on advertised network capacity.