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rt-ax3000 386.7_2 won't make 160mhz network

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Yeah, disregard that nonsense. There is no way (short of hacking hardware and drivers) to defeat DFS compliance. What you're asking to do is fine, FCC approves, but as you see it is not stable or reliable. Anything that is going to rescan and change back to 160mhz is going to cause an interruption of your wireless, may or may not be a big deal for you. If your router has a wifi button on it just turn it off and back on and that should make it rescan, or use the script posted to do essentially the same in an automated fashion. Still think this is not your root issue though.

160mhz is somewhat problematic, similar to 40mhz on 2.4 (though not as bad since that uses the entire spectrum instead of 1/3 of it).

6A will bring 6ghz. Lower range but more spectrum (and less interference until everyone around you adopts it).

Of course higher frequencies means potentially higher risk to your health. The cell phone companies have gone to great lengths to discredit that research but common sense and a little bit of science knowledge is all it takes to realize that this RF radiation is not great for you.

If my microwave can cook food at 1000 watts of 2.5 ghz, then 0.1 watt of the same frequency 24/7 for many years is going to have some impact. Not to mention the 15ghz satellite signals, 28-39 ghz 5G mmwave, all the cellular antennas running about 800mhz-2ghz, etc. We're slowly getting cooked and your cells are mutating little by little. There are anectodal stories of soldiers hanging out near microwave antennas to keep warm, little did they realize WHY it was keeping them warm, when the antenna was cool to the touch and not radiating any heat. They got cancer. OK tin foil hat off now.
Idk just based on my experience higher bitrate is enabled with 160mhz. I dont really care if wifi goes down on that ap if it is to restore 160mhz functionality. Its not in use 90% of the time, being dedicated to vr.

Regarding frequencies, whatever. Everything gives you cancer these days. I probably already have cancer i dont know about, knock on wood.

6a, unless they release a type c adapter with power passthrough for quest 2 doesnt do me much good. Nothing i have will get support for it and everything i have is pretty new, wont be upgraded for a number of years
 
Idk just based on my experience higher bitrate is enabled with 160mhz. I dont really care if wifi goes down on that ap if it is to restore 160mhz functionality. Its not in use 90% of the time, being dedicated to vr.

Regarding frequencies, whatever. Everything gives you cancer these days. I probably already have cancer i dont know about, knock on wood.

6a, unless they release a type c adapter with power passthrough for quest 2 doesnt do me much good. Nothing i have will get support for it and everything i have is pretty new, wont be upgraded for a number of years

Your VR doesn't care about the channel width (I mean I guess it could but no idea why it would), only how much bandwidth it is able to get. If it can connect at 1.2Gbit/sec and pull easily 600M I can't see why it would be reducing bitrate/quality. So that's why I suggest that it is other interference or saturation that is causing the issue, and not the channel width itself. Try some other 80mhz channels and see what happens.

You could go for the extremely low tech route of putting a timer or smart plug on the AP and having it hard reboot every hour or whatever. Smart plug is probably the better route as it lets you get very granular and the on/off relay is typically going to give you a much cleaner transition than the wall timers that use a cheap mechanically operated switch. Possible that this solution could shorten the life of the router either way though.

But if you're comfortable scripting it then the solution provided should help, or just write your own to stop and start the wifi every hour or whatever.

I'm sure 6ghz devices will start popping up fairly soon. But yeah it won't help your current headset/hardware (well some other features of 6A might but probably not for the particular issue you're seeing).
 
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Smart plug is probably the better route as it lets you get very granular and the on/off relay is typically going to give you a much cleaner transition than the wall timers that use a cheap mechanically operated switch.

Both cut the power the same way - electromagnetic relay with mechanical contacts.
 
Both cut the power the same way - electromagnetic relay with mechanical contacts.

Digital timer sure, I'm thinking the old school rotary that flips a switch or holds a button in, the transfer is slower and dirtier than a relay based timer. Some can even leak some voltage though when off or not provide full voltage when on. They're still pretty common. They're fine for lights but not something I'd use on any sort of electronics.
 
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Your VR doesn't care about the channel width (I mean I guess it could but no idea why it would), only how much bandwidth it is able to get. If it can connect at 1.2Gbit/sec and pull easily 600M I can't see why it would be reducing bitrate/quality. So that's why I suggest that it is other interference or saturation that is causing the issue, and not the channel width itself. Try some other 80mhz channels and see what happens.

You could go for the extremely low tech route of putting a timer or smart plug on the AP and having it hard reboot every hour or whatever. Smart plug is probably the better route as it lets you get very granular and the on/off relay is typically going to give you a much cleaner transition than the wall timers that use a cheap mechanically operated switch. Possible that this solution could shorten the life of the router either way though.

But if you're comfortable scripting it then the solution provided should help, or just write your own to stop and start the wifi every hour or whatever.

I'm sure 6ghz devices will start popping up fairly soon. But yeah it won't help your current headset/hardware (well some other features of 6A might but probably not for the particular issue you're seeing).
I mean it gets more bandwidth with 160mhz than 80mhz. This is verifiably true. Doesnt matter why, only matters that it does. Im in a single family home so not much interference.
 
It doesn't matter much. You cut the mains power before the adapter with stabilizer inside.

If you mean the voltage regulator, which is probably a cheap bridge rectifier and tiny filtering capacitor, the difference is still significant. The wall warts have gotten much cheaper and less robust over the years. Even if it is a halfway decent regulator IC there is very little ability to deal with noise or variations, it is there purely to convert AC to DC and any change in the AC side will make it through to DC. Even if all it hurts is the adapter, still not something you want to have happen.
 
I mean it gets more bandwidth with 160mhz than 80mhz. This is verifiably true. Doesnt matter why, only matters that it does. Im in a single family home so not much interference.

But it matters that it isn't stable at 160 and would work better if you could get it working correctly at 80mhz. But if you don't care enough to be bothered with that then no biggie, just bounce the wifi or router every time you want to use it.
 
No, router's wall adapter is a more modern switching power supply.

Hence saying "Even if it is a halfway decent regulator IC".

Regardless, still holds true, anything more than slight variation in input voltage will translate through to the DC side. Just from the size and weight of the power supply you can tell there is no significant amount of input filtering on it. Even if the router survives fine, constantly connecting and disconnecting the power will reduce the power supply's lifespan. Doing so in a 'dirty" fashion will make it happen even faster. So if you do go the route of power cycling the router frequently, at least do it with a relay based timer/smart plug.
 
Regardless, still holds true, anything more than slight variation in input voltage will translate through to the DC side.

No, sorry. I know exactly how it's made. This particular power supply. You can continue with the general theories though. :rolleyes:
 
No, sorry. I know exactly how it's made. This particular power supply. You can continue with the general theories though. :rolleyes:
Ok I guess this $3 power supply is magical and defies electrical engineering rules. Do as you please with it, I'll use common sense with mine.
 

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