Which Architecture For New Home Wired and Wireless

[jnordyke]

Just started construction on a new home and trying to decide on best infrastructure to make both wired and wireless available throughout the home (1800 sq feet top floor and 1000 sq feet walk out basement). Open concept floor plan means there is not a good/attractive place for a wiring closet in a central location, so I have to use a location (mudroom) on the periphery of the house. I will have 1G service via fiber from my ISP and will be running 24 CAT6 drops throughout the home...minimum of 2 drops each room, 4 drops at places that may become media intensive. I have a couple of different thoughts on how to proceed but would like some feedback....

1. I could get a good tri band router, leave it in the mudroom and hope it provides converage throughout the house...make use of the 8 ports on the router until I need more active connections and then add a gigabit switch.

2. I could feed from the ISPs modem to a jack in a central location (40' run), plug in the router in that central location for wireless, and then patch cable from router to jack back to switch in the mudroom (another 40' run)to get wired to whole house.

3. I could leave a wired-only router in the mudroom, and drop in AP's as needed in other rooms.

In addition to your thoughts regarding the above options, do I generally have reason to believe that plugging drops directly into the router provides better performance than patching the router first to a switch and distributing? Thanks in advance...

 

[L&LD]

I suggest running 5 to 12 drops to a centrally located (with regards to WiFi coverage) part of the home where your main wireless router will be located. This will have the advantage of a single WiFi point (your square footage doesn't indicate more than a single router), optimally placed.

The other end can then be used on switches to connect the rest of the home. But I would suggest something like the following:

Router's LAN Port 1 connected to Switch 1, LAN Port 2 connected to Switch 2, etc.

An example of how to utilize all switches and the router's LAN ports (add more drops as needed for each additional LAN port the router has, plus one drop for the WAN port for your specific router) is shown below.

• Switch 1 may be used to connect all wired Desktops.
• Switch 2 may be used to connect all Media devices (xbox, etc.).
• Switch 3 may be used to connect additional AP's (garage, back yard, etc.).
• Switch 4 may be used to connect all NAS and Printers.

Given that the wireless router is now in the optimal position with regards to WiFi signals and the LAN ports fully utilized as suggested above, you have the ultimate flexibility to configure your network as is best needed for your needs.

What you gain by segmenting your network devices over the 4 LAN ports as I indicate is that each segment (switch) has direct connection to your ISP - without affecting local lan traffic. If there are 4 or devices that need the full ISP connection across all switches/ports (and/or WiFi) simultaneously, there is no benefit, of course. But in most cases, the benefits will be a much smoother running and responsive network. Which can be further tweaked as needed if these drops all go to the same location and you can adjust the LAN port used as required. (For example; you could connect your main Desktop to the Switch 4 port so that it has direct connection to the NAS, if that is your usage model).


The router(s) I would suggest for this layout is the RT-AC3100, RT-AC88U or the RT-AC5300.

What the above setup offers you is that you can now drop in any (prosumer) WiFi router as needed as their capabilities change to better match our constantly changing WiFi/router needs.

If possible; don't limit yourself to the 6 to 12 drops I'm recommending as a minimum (there are extra drop(s) included for a 4 Port + WAN port router and for an 8 Port + WAN router) for your main WiFi router location. Particularly if you'll be running the cable yourself (wire is relatively cheap! at this point). Having the extra drops without using them may cost you a few dollars more today, but needing them in the near future may make them priceless.

 

[System Error Message]

having multiple ethernet per room is good, you dont have to immediately make use of all of them though on the switch part.

For 1G internet, it really depends on what features you need. Some routers will handle it some wont depending on your needs, broadcom dual core A9 routers arent particularly great at this especially if your WAN uses PPPOE.

If the router also handles wifi, being able to bond the port helps. Having a semi managed switch capable of both static and LACP bonding will be very useful. Lets say you end up with 30 cable drops, you can still use a 24 port switch now and add another switch later. If both switches are semi managed you can combine a few ports between them to reduce bottlenecks.

your house isnt that big for wifi, 1 wifi AP placed correctly can be very helpful.

 

[KenZ71]

I would say add a couple ethernet drops for ceiling mount access points. Or at least put them high mounted in a closet so you can wall mount just above closet doors. By the way, most ceiling mount APs are powered by ethernet which allows for centralized battery backup.

One central AP might work but also might work better having the home covered with two.

 

[Trip]

If you're doing infrastructure from scratch, even at <3,000 sq. feet, I'd still go with option 3. Why not have the built-in option to run two, three or however many APs desired via direct drops right to the location(s) you'll want them. Run a high-quality wired router along with your core switch at the demarc, then any downstream access switch(es) wherever you need them. As far as port count and switch fabric capacity, that one's really dependent on number of unique drops, devices to support, etc. Sounds like you're off to a good start with your thought process, though. Good luck!

 

[CaptainSTX]

Be sure you have AC power circuits/ and lots of outlets near where all your equipment is going to be installed. Dedicated circuits are great. You don't want an overload on an appliance or lamp taking your network hardware down when a breaker trips. Avoid plugging your network gear into Arc fault or GFI protected circuits as they are more subject to nusciance trips and can interact badly with a UPS. If the mud room is considered a wet area then GFI protection will be required by code at least it is in the US. Just be sure that each outlet on this branch circuit has its own GFI outlet and it is not connected in a string with other GFI protected outlets

The advantage of having most or all of your equipment in the mud room is that it can be powered from a single UPS.

Also onsider ventalation/ cooling. The mud room's cooling and air circulation were probably were not planned anticipating the added heat sources of a large switch, modem, and router in what is probably a small room. If you have the clothes dryer in the mud room the HVAC planning is even more important.

 

[Samir]

If you're doing infrastructure from scratch, even at <3,000 sq. feet, I'd still go with option 3. Why not have the built-in option to run two, three or however many APs desired via direct drops right to the location(s) you'll want them. Run a high-quality wired router along with your core switch at the demarc, then any downstream access switch(es) wherever you need them. As far as port count and switch fabric capacity, that one's really dependent on number of unique drops, devices to support, etc. Sounds like you're off to a good start with your thought process, though. Good luck!

This was my thinking as well. You can have the single router like in option 1 to start, but can grow to option 3 if access is an issue.

To give you some comparison food for thought, we have a 1170sqft 2br apartment (dimensionally square). Lots of walls, but wood framing and only the standard thickness.

My wife wanted 150Mbps everywhere over wireless because the comcast/xfinity combo router could do it. I needed a standalone modem so I can use my vpn router for work. The compromise was to add a archer c5 as an access point right near the entrance (midway on one side of the square), and it works well. The wife sees almost 100Mbps at the furthest edges of our unit. With 1g Internet you'll probably need a faster (processor and design-wise) access point to get into the higher throughput ranges everywhere, but I think as long as you figure out a good location on each floor, you'll be able to get away with just one ap per floor. And with being wired, you can always add more as you see fit.

I also like systems like plume which take things to a different level in terms of mesh and simplicity of design.

Also, feel free to add 2 ports per wall. That's what our old apartment had set up and it was great when we had a room layout that was different than the original design by the architect.

Be sure you have AC power circuits/ and lots of outlets near where all your equipment is going to be installed. Dedicated circuits are great. You don't want an overload on an appliance or lamp taking your network hardware down when a breaker trips. Avoid plugging your network gear into Arc fault or GFI protected circuits as they are more subject to nusciance trips and can interact badly with a UPS. If the mud room is considered a wet area then GFI protection will be required by code at least it is in the US. Just be sure that each outlet on this branch circuit has its own GFI outlet and it is not connected in a string with other GFI protected outlets

The advantage of having most or all of your equipment in the mud room is that it can be powered from a single UPS.

Also onsider ventalation/ cooling. The mud room's cooling and air circulation were probably were not planned anticipating the added heat sources of a large switch, modem, and router in what is probably a small room. If you have the clothes dryer in the mud room the HVAC planning is even more important.

Very, very good points! Power and ventilation are so many times overlooked--as well as noise levels. Our business demarcs were death zones for most equipment--temps well over 100F and no ventilation--but these were 30 year old buildings before the advent of Internet access. A little planning now will save down the road in cooked gear or annoying sounds.

 

[Fatawan]

I am in the exact same position as the OP. I am in the process of planning a new build, and the neighborhood has ATT fiber to the home(1 gig). Does anyone know what they will need for wiring (I plan a lot of Cat6 drops like the OP)? I see that they use their own gateway--is it any good as a wireless router? If not, can it be bypassed? I will thank everyone as well for the great tips in the previous posts. Any preference on the cable listed here? http://www.markertek.com/category/bulk-category-ethernet-cable?Brand=Belden&Display=25

 

[sfx2000]

Some thoughts - when pulling cable - material is cheap compared to the labor involved - so pulling two to each drop, using one, and keeping the other as a spare, this is good advice...

When I pulled ethernet at my house, I also did RG-58 coax at the same time - something to consider - in hindsight, I should have pulled RG-6 instead, as my DirecTV installed did a dedicated RG6 pull as part of his work​

Try very, very hard not to run ethernet parallel with the AC wiring and if you have to cross, do it as close to a 90 degree angle as you can...

The second CAT5 can be used for Telco on RJ11 jacks, but these days, with everyone having mobile phones, it's not as big of a deal, but once that drop is there - it's available.

Depending on code - this determines the class of cable for plenum rating - going overhead in the attic, or between floors over joists, something to consider...

Also for POE/POE+ this is another consideration for quality/class of cable being used...

In bulk - Beldin is fairly good, there are others...

If one is doing it DIY - a good cable tester is cheap, a toner is handy, and buy a good crimping tool kit...

 

[sfx2000]

I am in the exact same position as the OP. I am in the process of planning a new build, and the neighborhood has ATT fiber to the home(1 gig). Does anyone know what they will need for wiring (I plan a lot of Cat6 drops like the OP)? I see that they use their own gateway--is it any good as a wireless router?

Cool that you have FTTH - most ATT deployments are FTTN (Fiber to the Node).

ATT will do the run to the demarc/ONT, and then do an ethernet run to a point inside the house where it terminates into the Residential Gateway - that run between the demarc and the RF is known as the home run, and they 'own' it.

The newer ATT RG's that you'll see for WiFi/Ethernet aren't so bad - better that some, and much better than the old-school DSL 2-Wire stuff.

That being said - with fibre, they're going to want to be the primary, so bridging the RG isn't likely an option these days - so if you want to do some personal networking with an off-the-shelf router/AP/WiFi, you'll likely be limited into the DMZ of the RG.

 

[Samir]

I am in the exact same position as the OP. I am in the process of planning a new build, and the neighborhood has ATT fiber to the home(1 gig). Does anyone know what they will need for wiring (I plan a lot of Cat6 drops like the OP)? I see that they use their own gateway--is it any good as a wireless router? If not, can it be bypassed? I will thank everyone as well for the great tips in the previous posts. Any preference on the cable listed here? http://www.markertek.com/category/bulk-category-ethernet-cable?Brand=Belden&Display=25

I have an att 5268ac gateway that was on a fibre install (but not gigabit). Wife loved the wifi as we got our full 75Mbps download speed anywhere in our apartment. From what I've read on the 5268ac, it's the cream of the crop in terms of att gear and is quite decent at what it does.

Some thoughts - when pulling cable - material is cheap compared to the labor involved - so pulling two to each drop, using one, and keeping the other as a spare, this is good advice...

When I pulled ethernet at my house, I also did RG-58 coax at the same time - something to consider - in hindsight, I should have pulled RG-6 instead, as my DirecTV installed did a dedicated RG6 pull as part of his work​

Try very, very hard not to run ethernet parallel with the AC wiring and if you have to cross, do it as close to a 90 degree angle as you can...

The second CAT5 can be used for Telco on RJ11 jacks, but these days, with everyone having mobile phones, it's not as big of a deal, but once that drop is there - it's available.

Depending on code - this determines the class of cable for plenum rating - going overhead in the attic, or between floors over joists, something to consider...

Also for POE/POE+ this is another consideration for quality/class of cable being used...

In bulk - Beldin is fairly good, there are others...

If one is doing it DIY - a good cable tester is cheap, a toner is handy, and buy a good crimping tool kit...

Excellent, excellent advice. Feel free to pull more cables too--it's only wire after all and will cost 10-20x more minimum to get more in the walls once they're sealed up. And definitely don't forget the coax as there is some cool stuff you can do with it like moca2.0, not to mention all the digital boxes that run on it.

Cool that you have FTTH - most ATT deployments are FTTN (Fiber to the Node).

ATT will do the run to the demarc/ONT, and then do an ethernet run to a point inside the house where it terminates into the Residential Gateway - that run between the demarc and the RF is known as the home run, and they 'own' it.

The newer ATT RG's that you'll see for WiFi/Ethernet aren't so bad - better that some, and much better than the old-school DSL 2-Wire stuff.

That being said - with fibre, they're going to want to be the primary, so bridging the RG isn't likely an option these days - so if you want to do some personal networking with an off-the-shelf router/AP/WiFi, you'll likely be limited into the DMZ of the RG.

Yep, my experience as well. And the dmz is quite nice, passing a public ip to your equipment. The only problem I ran into is that it wouldn't pass ipsec packets to my vpn router, so I had to get a block of static IPs to get that device to work. And the implementation is a bit weird because the static block is programmed into the gateway and my vpn router still plugs into the gateway. But it all worked so I was happy.

 

[Fatawan]

I am working on house plans now. I think I have my network products figured out for my new house, but I have a few questions. The plan is to run two or more Cat6 to each room and bring them back to a 12 or 24 port patch panel and have a 16 or 24 port switch. I am going to use Belden cable for my runs, and buy some high quality patch cables. By the way, I am having the toughest time finding a place to buy Belden, Panduit or other patch cable brands touted here. Any suggestions for online sources? If the prices are similar, I could use Blue Jeans Cable, but I don't know if they compare favorably or not. Anyway, will the ATT installer use high quality cable to connect their outside box to the gateway? Should I do a run of wire from my preferred gateway spot to their outside box area for them? Do I need to worry at all about their install? Now that I think about it, if I have a spot for the gateway, their only choice is to use my pre-installed wire as I am not going to let them go mucking about in my brand new walls. So, do I need to run anything special for them or just my Belden Cat6? Do you see any problem in having the gateway in a middle-of--the-first-floor spot and all the cabling/patch panel/switch, etc on the lower level(so just the ATT wire in and one run out to the switch) or should I run a number of cables equal to the ports on the gateway up to the gateway home? I appreciate all your help on these matters. I only get one chance to put everything in those walls and I want to get it right!

EDIT--one more question--does ATT use coax or Cat6 to feed TV to their set top boxes?

 

[FatherLandDescendant]

Do I need to worry at all about their install?

You never know who they'll send out and what their skill level is, or even if they care enough to do a decent job. Some installers just don't care.

Where I work the property management company that owns the property recently switched ISPs from Windstream to Spectrum, both phone and internet. The installer came, hooked up the phone and internet equipment, was there for a couple of hours in the network closet and left. Never checked to see that the services installed were working in the PM office. Phone worked, but the internet never did, they called Spectrum and the service center said they could see their router everything was fine on their end it was the computer. A week goes by and I finally hear about the problem as I'm getting into the network closet (our businesses share a network closet), I look and couldn't help but to laugh, the installer had the network cable that came with the modem, still with its' rubber band around it plugged into the modem just hanging there... They had a computer tech scheduled to come look at their computer, I simply unplugged the cable from their old Windstream modem and plugged it into their new Spectrum modem. Problem solved, internet has been working every since.

So like I said you never know who they'll send or what kind of job they'll do, what they'll do right and what they'll miss

 

[sfx2000]

Anyway, will the ATT installer use high quality cable to connect their outside box to the gateway?

Yes, they will do the run from the NID/ONT to the RG - it's good quality cable they use.

Should I do a run of wire from my preferred gateway spot to their outside box area for them? Do I need to worry at all about their install?

The NID/ONT - they will want to keep this close to where the power panel and meter is - this is so they can use the common bonding stake for grounding their gear... the RG, they'll locate it where you want it - and that run, see above - they'll do that run, as the RG is the ultimate edge of their side of the regulated/unregulated split...

Now that I think about it, if I have a spot for the gateway, their only choice is to use my pre-installed wire as I am not going to let them go mucking about in my brand new walls. So, do I need to run anything special for them or just my Belden Cat6?

It depends - they'll test the cables, but if it doesn't meet spec, see above...

Do you see any problem in having the gateway in a middle-of--the-first-floor spot and all the cabling/patch panel/switch, etc on the lower level(so just the ATT wire in and one run out to the switch) or should I run a number of cables equal to the ports on the gateway up to the gateway home?

Depends... I would rather have the RG close to the rest of my wired infra - e.g. patch panels, switches, etc... if you're intending to use the RG's wifi, then location is obviously more critical for good coverage.

I appreciate all your help on these matters. I only get one chance to put everything in those walls and I want to get it right!

EDIT--one more question--does ATT use coax or Cat6 to feed TV to their set top boxes?

ATT has multiple options - depends on specifics and what the premises tech has on the truck... ethernet, coax (moca) or HPNA (which is kinda like homeplug, but it uses the phone wires) - my understanding is they are phasing out HPNA, and moving more towards coax and dedicated wifi with the newer stuff (and integration with the DirecTV stuff).

 

[coxhaus]

My experience with my daughter's new house in a new ATT fiber subdivision was you ended up with a copper guy and/or a fiber guy. Of course it took both to get her home up and running since it was brand new. But the first go around a copper guy showed and could not make the fiber work. I was there when it all happened multiple times. We finally got a fiber guy which lit the fiber. Now we needed a copper guy because the house was wired for DSL by the builder. We finally straightened it all out and it is working great. I want to say ATT did a good job fixing the copper with my direction. They are a large company with lots of resources.

I could not get ATT to put a patch panel in but we made it work and terminated everything in the garage instead of outside where the phone/DSL box is located.

I was able to meet with the builder so he could wire the newer home correctly. My daughter is a realtor and worked with the builder.