Which ethernet cable?

[Blazerfan]

Hello,
I'm planning on running Ethernet throughout my house while some remodeling is being done, with the longest run being approximately 45 ft or so. The cable runs will be done through walls and the crawlspace. With that being said:
1) should I use Cat5e or Cat6?

2)should I use solid or stranded ? Shielded on unshielded?

3)should I buy specific lengths with rj45 connectors already on, or buy bulk cable and put on the connectors myself?

any help will be much appreciated since I'm a newbie at this

 

[sfx2000]

CAT6 if you want to future proof yourself - buy bulk, and do two runs to each for redundancy...

 

[TonyH]

Hello,
I'm planning on running Ethernet throughout my house while some remodeling is being done, with the longest run being approximately 45 ft or so. The cable runs will be done through walls and the crawlspace. With that being said:
1) should I use Cat5e or Cat6?

2)should I use solid or stranded ? Shielded on unshielded?

3)should I buy specific lengths with rj45 connectors already on, or buy bulk cable and put on the connectors myself?

any help will be much appreciated since I'm a newbie at this

I am using CAT7 spec'd semi flex cable(due to heavy shielding) Of course stranded wires) If you arenot experienced in using crimping tool, you may need some practice. I always try to buy best tool at hand. It is time saver as well as lessens frustration and good on safety.

 

[L&LD]

Is this the home you will retire in? If so, consider CAT6 or even CAT6e.

http://www.binbert.com/blog/2010/05/differences-between-cat5-cat5e-cat6-and-cat6e-cables/

Consider running the cable yourself, but hire a pro to terminate and test the cables properly.

With the short runs you require, CAT6e will let you upgrade your network as needed (if needed) to 10GbE Ethernet. Something that seems far fetched today, but will be here sooner than most think.

Also consider running 6 or more runs to the most central location in your home. This will allow you to position the WiFi router optimally and also let you connect other wired devices optimally too (and not daisy chained through a single port).

 

[Blade Runner]

I vote Cat5e and save money.

My network is nowhere near to being saturated with Cat5e.

It seems like a good idea to run cable that can transit 10GbE Ethernet until one realizes to achieve that data rate requires upgrading the entire network including internet connection, router, and switches.

IMO futureproofing technology is similar to chasing smoke.

 

[CaptainSTX]

Install the Cat6 cable with solid copper conductors. Run two lines to each location and terminate one leaving a second cable as a redundant spare. Terminating female keystone jacks using the included plastic punch down tool is simple enough. If you plan on attaching male jacks consider buying the Platinum tool and the special easier to install fittings. Also buy an inexpensive Ethernet test device which will check correct pinning and the continuity of each pair. Should not have to spend more than $10 for simple test device. If the cable passes the simple test then using your router and a switch or other device check if the cable is connecting at 1 Gig. If it does then you are good to go. In the future if you upgrade to a 10 Gig network you can always hire someone reterminate and certify your cable runs. Installing Cat6 cables will minimize your buyers remorse when everyone is telling you that you should have installed today's cutting edge technology to future proof your network for a bandwidth that you might never have a use for.

 

[KenZ71]

Cat6 is only slightly more expensive than Cat5e so my vote is cat6

As for pre-made cables vs buying a spool a few points from my experience:

Pre-made require almost twice as large a hole when pushing through walls & floors. Much easier to sneak a untermed cable through then use keystone style punch downs installed to a wall plate.

Multiple colors for cables makes identifying & tracing problem cables easier.

Label all cables!

Leave a couple feet of slack on each end to allow for reterms as needed.

Give a lot of thought to your router & switch location. It is a huge pain to relocate later on.

Good luck, with patience this is easy.

 

[Rtr8]

My vote is for Cat 6. For each port run 1 cable + extra. You may also want to have 3 or 4 face plates with Voice termination. This is in the event you want to hv IP voice ports separately.

If you really want fancy you can also run HDMI cables so that TVs can be mixed from a central place.


Since i am assuming this is going to be a new house it will be chump change for the other nicer stuff you would like to put ( upgraded countertops /floors etc etc and the list goes on)






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Blazerfan]

Cat6 is only slightly more expensive than Cat5e so my vote is cat6

As for pre-made cables vs buying a spool a few points from my experience:

Pre-made require almost twice as large a hole when pushing through walls & floors. Much easier to sneak a untermed cable through then use keystone style punch downs installed to a wall plate.

Multiple colors for cables makes identifying & tracing problem cables easier.

Label all cables!

Leave a couple feet of slack on each end to allow for reterms as needed.

Give a lot of thought to your router & switch location. It is a huge pain to relocate later on.

Good luck, with patience this is easy.

Thanks for the info. I haven't thought about a switch yet. The 4 ports on the router will be enough for the time being, the router will be in my living room which in the center of the house. Where would the switch go? Next to the router? Does this just require a patch cable from the router? I will be running 2 or 3 cables from each location for future hook-ups.

 

[Blazerfan]

Install the Cat6 cable with solid copper conductors. Run two lines to each location and terminate one leaving a second cable as a redundant spare. Terminating female keystone jacks using the included plastic punch down tool is simple enough. If you plan on attaching male jacks consider buying the Platinum tool and the special easier to install fittings. Also buy an inexpensive Ethernet test device which will check correct pinning and the continuity of each pair. Should not have to spend more than $10 for simple test device. If the cable passes the simple test then using your router and a switch or other device check if the cable is connecting at 1 Gig. If it does then you are good to go. In the future if you upgrade to a 10 Gig network you can always hire someone reterminate and certify your cable runs. Installing Cat6 cables will minimize your buyers remorse when everyone is telling you that you should have installed today's cutting edge technology to future proof your network for a bandwidth that you might never have a use for.

Thanks for the info. I found a few good YouTube videos on terminating with Keystone jacks, so I'll give this a try myself.

 

[Blazerfan]

My vote is for Cat 6. For each port run 1 cable + extra. You may also want to have 3 or 4 face plates with Voice termination. This is in the event you want to hv IP voice ports separately.

If you really want fancy you can also run HDMI cables so that TVs can be mixed from a central place.


Since i am assuming this is going to be a new house it will be chump change for the other nicer stuff you would like to put ( upgraded countertops /floors etc etc and the list goes on)






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you. When you mention face plates for voice termination, would that be for Voip?

 

[sfx2000]

RJ11 POTS...

 

[Rtr8]

Yes for VOIP. Also even if you are using the standard phone, it is at times nice to have a place to plug in an additional phone jack ( in parallel) since the voice connection with your handset is not that good.

By the way, if you are into home automation, and remodelling also look at http://elanhomesystems.com/. Overall very expensive but good to see the art of the possibility.

 

[Blazerfan]

Yes for VOIP. Also even if you are using the standard phone, it is at times nice to have a place to plug in an additional phone jack ( in parallel) since the voice connection with your handset is not that good.

By the way, if you are into home automation, and remodelling also look at http://elanhomesystems.com/. Overall very expensive but good to see the art of the possibility.

So, install a phone jack at the location, then use a RJ11 to RJ45 connector? Thanks for link!!

 

[kvic]

To me it's no brainer to go with CAT6 or even CAT6e, especially if the extra cost is marginal at your place.

I'm pretty sure I won't need 10Gbit/s at home for the next decade. But don't want to rule out other innovative applications people can make out of UTP cables 10 or 20 years down the road.

 

[Blade Runner]

I forgot to reply to OPs other questions..

Buy stranded and shielded cable.

Agree with paying a pro for testing and terminating cables. No need to buy tools for one-time job.

 

[CaptainSTX]

Thanks for the info. I haven't thought about a switch yet. The 4 ports on the router will be enough for the time being, the router will be in my living room which in the center of the house. Where would the switch go? Next to the router? Does this just require a patch cable from the router? I will be running 2 or 3 cables from each location for future hook-ups.

You don't want to run all the cables to the living room. You will have a very unhappy significant other if you have a massive tangle of cables coming out of the wall.

First determine where you Internet service is going to enter your home (demarc). The preferred location for the installation will be near where the electrical service enters the home so the ground rod for your electrical can be used for the Internet.

Then look at a location nearby where you can locate all your network equipment (router, cable modem, NAS ) If they are close to each other then they can all share a UPS. Don't worry if the location is central in your home as you can use your Ethernet network to easily locate APs wherever you need WiFi. The point of having a robust Ethernet network is so only mobile device depend on WiFi. Everything else should be hardwired.

Remember when you are planning the wiring you will need to install both coaxial and Ethernet cables from your planned equipment location to connect to the demarc.

Be sure where ever you install the network equipment has AC power (dedicated circuit nice but not necessary ) and has good ventilation (AC duct in room ). Ventilation is particularly important if you plan on installing your equipment in a closet, cabinet or a laundry room because 60 - 100 watts of electrical energy 24/7 will heat up the space fairly quickly.

 

[Blazerfan]

I forgot to reply to OPs other questions..

Buy stranded and shielded cable.

Agree with paying a pro for testing and terminating cables. No need to buy tools for one-time job.

Who do you get to do the testing and terminating of cables? Would that be a network installer? I'm not sure what that profession is called or what type of company to look up?

 

[sfx2000]

Who do you get to do the testing and terminating of cables? Would that be a network installer? I'm not sure what that profession is called or what type of company to look up?

Find someone who specializes in low-voltage Telecom/Networking - they'll have the proper tools/test equipment to ensure everything is done right...

Since you're remodeling, check with your general contractor, as they might have a couple of referrals...

 

[Blazerfan]

You don't want to run all the cables to the living room. You will have a very unhappy significant other if you have a massive tangle of cables coming out of the wall.

First determine where you Internet service is going to enter your home (demarc). The preferred location for the installation will be near where the electrical service enters the home so the ground rod for your electrical can be used for the Internet.

Then look at a location nearby where you can locate all your network equipment (router, cable modem, NAS ) If they are close to each other then they can all share a UPS. Don't worry if the location is central in your home as you can use your Ethernet network to easily locate APs wherever you need WiFi. The point of having a robust Ethernet network is so only mobile device depend on WiFi. Everything else should be hardwired.

Remember when you are planning the wiring you will need to install both coaxial and Ethernet cables from your planned equipment location to connect to the demarc.

Be sure where ever you install the network equipment has AC power (dedicated circuit nice but not necessary ) and has good ventilation (AC duct in room ). Ventilation is particularly important if you plan on installing your equipment in a closet, cabinet or a laundry room because 60 - 100 watts of electrical energy 24/7 will heat up the space fairly quickly.

If my router covers my whole house from the living room, should I just leave the router there, and have the switch, with all the cables in another room where it's not a visible mess to my wife?