goCoax MoCA 2.5 adapter

[Booboo22]

I'm struggling still to understand why change the D-band(s). MoCA 2.5 should work just fine with MoCA 1.1 (the settop boxes). I'm still of the opinion that either (a) there's still bad cabling plant or (b) external interference by *something*. Which points to the best diagnostics being the previous suggestion to disconnect everything off the cable plan and start with just the 2 MoCA 2.5 adapters. Then add one new elements at a time, test, repeat, until the network issues reappear.

 

[rmann2020]

After you changed the MoCA band, normally you need to change the LOF at the same time. Then save and reboot.
We don't suggest to use different band in the same network.

What LOF do you recommend for D-High band?

For security settings, should I also use D-High or stick to D-Ext?

I'm struggling still to understand why change the D-band(s). MoCA 2.5 should work just fine with MoCA 1.1 (the settop boxes). I'm still of the opinion that either (a) there's still bad cabling plant or (b) external interference by *something*. Which points to the best diagnostics being the previous suggestion to disconnect everything off the cable plan and start with just the 2 MoCA 2.5 adapters. Then add one new elements at a time, test, repeat, until the network issues reappear.

Isn't that what I did in Test 1-3 (MoCA adapters connected directly) and then Test 4 (2 way splitter added on second floor only)? Test 4 is when the adapters wouldn't reconnect and going back down to Test 3 didn't fix the problem either. That's when I paused to ask the community if there was a certain sequence/change I needed to make when testing to ensure the adapters connect. Looks like @gocoax is saying that the LOF needs to change when I change the MoCA band. Now I'm looking for direction on what value to set LOF to for D-High band.

 

[Booboo22]

Isn't that what I did in Test 1-3 (MoCA adapters connected directly) and then Test 4 (2 way splitter added on second floor only)?

Maybe I misread that but you weere also changing D-bands, etc. The suggestion was to leave the cable plant as is, leave the adapters factory stock (no need to set security since you have an PoE filter), and test that; I'm assuming it will work fine since a single run coax works. If it doesn't then diagnose your cable plan. If the adapters work, then add additional Coax connected items one by one, until the adapters fail.

The direction you are going *might* work by running MoCA 2.5 and MoCA 1.1 on different non-overlapping frequencies, but that was not the intent of the designers of MoCA. It's all supposed to be backwards compatible for plug-and-play.

 

[rodexo]

I can't make mine work with xFinity's DPC3941T. It is also killing the Motorola MM1000 connection if I hook them together but nevertheless it doesn't work even if I take the MM1000 out completely and hook the GoCoax to the same coax termination. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Booboo22]

I can't make mine work with xFinity's DPC3941T. It is also killing the Motorola MM1000 connection if I hook them together but nevertheless it doesn't work even if I take the MM1000 out completely and hook the GoCoax to the same coax termination. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Do you have a PoE filter that you could install on the Coax connector of the DPC3941T? I've been wondering if the cable modem is also killing @rmann2020's install. But the fact that your MM1000 are also causing issues seems worrysome, since those are MoCA 2.0 and should also behave nicely with 2.5.

 

[rodexo]

Do you have a PoE filter that you could install on the Coax connector of the DPC3941T? I've been wondering if the cable modem is also killing @rmann2020's install. But the fact that your MM1000 are also causing issues seems worrysome, since those are MoCA 2.0 and should also behave nicely with 2.5.

I do have a POE 5-1002MHz
Thanks


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[gocoax]

I'm struggling still to understand why change the D-band(s). MoCA 2.5 should work just fine with MoCA 1.1 (the settop boxes). I'm still of the opinion that either (a) there's still bad cabling plant or (b) external interference by *something*. Which points to the best diagnostics being the previous suggestion to disconnect everything off the cable plan and start with just the 2 MoCA 2.5 adapters. Then add one new elements at a time, test, repeat, until the network issues reappear.

What kind of MoCA1.1 device. You know, only one MoCA 2.5 chip vendor. In deed we found there are some backward compliance issues, especially with some old MoCA devices.

 

[Booboo22]

What kind of MoCA1.1 device. You know, only one MoCA 2.5 chip vendor. In deed we found there are some backward compliance issues, especially with some old MoCA devices.

See above, the reports are for Cisco DPC3941T DOCSIS modem (MoCA 2.0 bonded), Motorola MM1100 EOC bridge (MoCA 2.0 Bonded), Hitron CODA DOCSIS modem (MoCA 2.0), Rogers Nextbox STB (MoCA 1.1). Hopefully your chipset is not incompatible with all these devices.

 

[rmann2020]

Maybe I misread that but you weere also changing D-bands, etc. The suggestion was to leave the cable plant as is, leave the adapters factory stock (no need to set security since you have an PoE filter), and test that; I'm assuming it will work fine since a single run coax works. If it doesn't then diagnose your cable plan. If the adapters work, then add additional Coax connected items one by one, until the adapters fail.

The direction you are going *might* work by running MoCA 2.5 and MoCA 1.1 on different non-overlapping frequencies, but that was not the intent of the designers of MoCA. It's all supposed to be backwards compatible for plug-and-play.

Update: I went back to stock settings with no security enabled and connected the adapters directly (using coax from basement to second floor). Everything worked perfectly with expected PHY Rates. I then updated both adapters to D-High only and PHY dropper to ~700. Is this expected?

I'll continue testing by slowly adding additional coax connected items... but wanted to share results so far in case needed.

 

[Booboo22]

You are then moving higher in the frequency bands, which may make your non-MoCA 2.0 splitter show their weaknesses... Just a guess at this point though.

 

[rmann2020]

You are then moving higher in the frequency bands, which may make your non-MoCA 2.0 splitter show their weaknesses... Just a guess at this point though.

No splitters are being used currently.. still connecting the adapters directly.

Edit: unless there's a splitter in the wall which I'm not aware of... which may likely be the case

Edit 2: I am now fairly certain that there are splitters in the wall. Now I have to figure out if it's possible to get to them and swap with MoCA splitters. I suspect that won't be an option though. If I can't get to the in-wall splitter(s), is my only other choice to run new cable?

 

[rodexo]

See above, the reports are for Cisco DPC3941T DOCSIS modem (MoCA 2.0 bonded), Motorola MM1100 EOC bridge (MoCA 2.0 Bonded), Hitron CODA DOCSIS modem (MoCA 2.0), Rogers Nextbox STB (MoCA 1.1). Hopefully your chipset is not incompatible with all these devices.

I tried everything for the past 6h. No luck.


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[Booboo22]

No splitters are being used currently.. still connecting the adapters directly.

Edit: unless there's a splitter in the wall which I'm not aware of... which may likely be the case

Edit 2: I am now fairly certain that there are splitters in the wall. Now I have to figure out if it's possible to get to them and swap with MoCA splitters. I suspect that won't be an option though. If I can't get to the in-wall splitter(s), is my only other choice to run new cable?

An in-wall splitter may not be an issue, it's just that you need to know what it's doing, and where the legs go, are they terminated, etc. Have you found *all* F-connector wallplates in your house? Your previous drawing led me to believe you have just 4 drops (and hence just 4 wallplates). If you have more wallplates then for sure there are splitters *somewhere*, they could be further away from your 4-way splitter in the attic. How new is this house?

If you find wallplates beyond the 4 locations we have been discussing, then first job is to put 75-Ohm terminators on all those connectors.

 

[rmann2020]

An in-wall splitter may not be an issue, it's just that you need to know what it's doing, and where the legs go, are they terminated, etc. Have you found *all* F-connector wallplates in your house? Your previous drawing led me to believe you have just 4 drops (and hence just 4 wallplates). If you have more wallplates then for sure there are splitters *somewhere*, they could be further away from your 4-way splitter in the attic. How new is this house?

If you find wallplates beyond the 4 locations we have been discussing, then first job is to put 75-Ohm terminators on all those connectors.

I have not seen any other wallplates in the house and, to the best of my knowledge, it's just the 4 drops. That said, I clued into the fact today the the color cable in the basement is different than the color cable in both the main floor and second floor which is why I suspect splitter(s) in the wall somewhere.

 

[gocoax]

What LOF do you recommend for D-High band?

For security settings, should I also use D-High or stick to D-Ext?


Isn't that what I did in Test 1-3 (MoCA adapters connected directly) and then Test 4 (2 way splitter added on second floor only)? Test 4 is when the adapters wouldn't reconnect and going back down to Test 3 didn't fix the problem either. That's when I paused to ask the community if there was a certain sequence/change I needed to make when testing to ensure the adapters connect. Looks like @gocoax is saying that the LOF needs to change when I change the MoCA band. Now I'm looking for direction on what value to set LOF to for D-High band.

For D-band high, you could try 1400MHz.

 

[gocoax]

I can't make mine work with xFinity's DPC3941T. It is also killing the Motorola MM1000 connection if I hook them together but nevertheless it doesn't work even if I take the MM1000 out completely and hook the GoCoax to the same coax termination. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Could you provide more information? We can do more check for you.

 

[rmann2020]

I have not seen any other wallplates in the house and, to the best of my knowledge, it's just the 4 drops. That said, I clued into the fact today the the color cable in the basement is different than the color cable in both the main floor and second floor which is why I suspect splitter(s) in the wall somewhere.

My power went out for a minute this morning so both adapters power cycled at the same time. To my surprise, they both stated working when they came back online. Both adapters have all 3 bands checked and are fully connected to all planned splitters. PHY Rates are strong as per below.

Should I just leave everything as is or will I run into trouble later on with interference with the Netboxes for Whole Home PVR?

 

[rodexo]

Could you provide more information? We can do more check for you.

What kind of information?
Additional to my initial post, I tried with a short cable straight from the gateway, with or without filter and I still did not manage to make it work. Unidentified network/no internet.

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[rmann2020]

For D-band high, you could try 1400MHz.

LOF is now set to 1400 with only D-High band checked for both adapters. Nextbox Whole Home PVR is now working, but stability has started decreasing as I noticed a few disconnects. I'm starting to see RX Bad/Dropped #s above zero whereas when I had LOF = 1150 and all Bands checked it very stable with Bad/dropped staying at zero.

Will these drops/stability impact normal internet needs (i.e. Netflix, Youtube, general surfing, VoIP) or are they just noticeable when doing diagnostics? I prefer to keep whole home pvr working, but speed and stability of internet is higher on the priority list.

Lastly, are there any other settings/config I can do to further optimize for D-High?

 

[gocoax]

What kind of information?
Additional to my initial post, I tried with a short cable straight from the gateway, with or without filter and I still did not manage to make it work. Unidentified network/no internet.
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The link rate is too low. Looks like your network has very high attenuation. Please check the splitter and cables.