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Some of the powerline modules have a "pass through" plug receptacle. You don't loose a plug that way. i have one behind my tv that provides ethernet to the tv.
 
Let's recap a little.
  • You're paying for a 100 Mbps Internet service and Spectrum is delivering it. You are getting what you're paying for.
  • 100 Mbps is your "pinch point". While you may get faster speeds inside the house (e.g., computer to computer) 100 Mbps Internet is your cap.
  • Husband is already happy so we won't touch him.
  • The only problem is that cellar is less than optimal.
A simple range extender might do the trick. There are small ones that simply plug into an existing wall outlet. No wires.
  • Connect that high end laptop of yours at 5 GHz and run an Internet speed test.
  • Walk towards the stair case to the cellar and run another speed test.
  • Keep moving towards the staircase and keep running speed tests until your speeds begin to drop.
  • Note the location. Is it significantly closer to your cellar computers? Do you think if a "router" was located here that you (in the cellar) would get a better signal? Is there an outlet nearby? If so then this is about where you would try locating a simple all wireless range extender.
  • Some range extenders come with lights to assist you in where to best locate your range extender.
  • Your current router faces a window. Does your cellar have a window underneath that window? If so you might try a test from the cellar window.
  • The router would send a strong 5GHz signal to your range extender, your range extender would then send out a fresh 2.4GHz signal to the cellar.
  • Cheap (about $100) and unobtrusive.
  • This is the Netgear 6150 range extender review. Disappointing in that it topped out at about 65 Mbps (I got 60, 75 and 90 Mbps speeds on the three PCs in my application; one PC had no connectivity and one kept dropping prior to putting in a range extender) but, still, better than 25. There are, of course, better range extenders to choose from.
But you are intrigued with technology and really want a better router ; -)

(When I thought you were getting ok connectivity three floors away I assumed your existing router was already pretty good. Now that I know you are only two floors I think you were right, a better router might help.)
  • So you are going to load a WiFi analyzer onto your fancy laptop and walk around your house measuring (and recording) signal levels.
  • Then in July when you buy your new (whatever) router you can simply turn off your existing equipment and set up your new router, stand alone, no Internet access and walk around with your laptop/WiFi analyzer measuring signals and comparing them to your earlier benchmarks.
  • If you don't see improvements consider returning your new router.
  • If you like what you see then it's time to configure your new router.
    • But now you've two wireless setups side by side so you will need to turn off wireless on your old device. Some devices will let you and some won't. You may have to check with Spectrum
    • But now you're left with two routers, two subnets, two sets of address space, two DHCP servers, double NAT and so on. It will work but you may prefer;
      • Setting your Ubee to "bridge mode", e.g., turning it into a simple modem only. You may need to check with Spectrum. Ultimately you may want to have Spectrum replace your modem/router with a modem only device and save the $5/month.
      • Or, using your Ubee for routing, DHCP, NAT and dumbing down your new router into a simple wireless access point.
(As an aside, speed tests between your PCs are a better measure of wireless range and performance. You would plug both your laptops into Ethernet (temporarily of course) and run a speed test. You would then connect your high end laptop to 2.4 and then 5 GHz wireless and walk it around looking at the resultant changes in performance.)
 
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Let's recap a little.
  • You're paying for a 100 Mbps Internet service and Spectrum is delivering it. You are getting what you're paying for.
  • 100 Mbps is your "pinch point". While you may get faster speeds inside the house (e.g., computer to computer) 100 Mbps Internet is your cap.
  • Husband is already happy so we won't touch him.
  • The only problem is that cellar is less than optimal.
A simple range extender might do the trick. There are small ones that simply plug into an existing wall outlet. No wires.
  • Connect that high end laptop of yours at 5 GHz and run an Internet speed test.
  • Walk towards the stair case to the cellar and run another speed test.
  • Keep moving towards the staircase and keep running speed tests until your speeds begin to drop.
  • Note the location. Is it significantly closer to your cellar computers? Do you think if a "router" was located here that you (in the cellar) would get a better signal? Is there an outlet nearby? If so then this is about where you would try locating a simple all wireless range extender.
  • Some range extenders come with lights to assist you in where to best locate your range extender.
  • Your current router faces a window. Does your cellar have a window underneath that window? If so you might try a test from the cellar window.
  • The router would send a strong 5GHz signal to your range extender, your range extender would then send out a fresh 2.4GHz signal to the cellar.
  • Cheap (about $100) and unobtrusive.
  • This is the Netgear 6150 range extender review. Disappointing in that it topped out at about 65 Mbps (I got 60, 75 and 90 Mbps speeds on the three PCs in my application; one PC had no connectivity and one kept dropping prior to putting in a range extender) but, still, better than 25. There are, of course, better range extenders to choose from.
But you are intrigued with technology and really want a better router ; -)

(When I thought you were getting ok connectivity three floors away I assumed your existing router was already pretty good. Now that I know you are only two floors I think you were right, a better router might help.)
  • So you are going to load a WiFi analyzer onto your fancy laptop and walk around your house measuring (and recording) signal levels.
  • Then in July when you buy your new (whatever) router you can simply turn off your existing equipment and set up your new router, stand alone, no Internet access and walk around with your laptop/WiFi analyzer measuring signals and comparing them to your earlier benchmarks.
  • If you don't see improvements consider returning your new router.
  • If you like what you see then it's time to configure your new router.
    • But now you've two wireless setups side by side so you will need to turn off wireless on your old device. Some devices will let you and some won't. You may have to check with Spectrum
    • But now you're left with two routers, two subnets, two sets of address space, two DHCP servers, double NAT and so on. It will work but you may prefer;
      • Setting your Ubee to "bridge mode", e.g., turning it into a simple modem only. You may need to check with Spectrum. Ultimately you may want to have Spectrum replace your modem/router with a modem only device and save the $5/month.
      • Or, using your Ubee for routing, DHCP, NAT and dumbing down your new router into a simple wireless access point.
(As an aside, speed tests between your PCs are a better measure of wireless range and performance. You would plug both your laptops into Ethernet (temporarily of course) and run a speed test. You would then connect your high end laptop to 2.4 and then 5 GHz wireless and walk it around looking at the resultant changes in performance.)

Wow.

I have a few questions to ask for clarification on all of this amazing info, @Klueless, and I apologize for what will come across as simpletonia.

100 Mbps is your "pinch point". Do you mean by "pinch point" that 100 Mbps is the fastest I can expect from the Ubee router? I ask because the plan advertises that it offers speeds beginning at 100 Mbps, the implication being it starts there but offers faster speeds under (more ideal, as in 2:00 a.m.?) other circumstances.

Husband is already happy so we won't touch him. Husband is not happy with his PC wireless speeds, but he's happy with Spectrum's streaming and Roku connections to our TV (wired, of course). He's afraid that anything I do might jeopardize that. I'd like to help him, and perhaps whatever I end up doing will help him--but I'm going to focus on my basement office PCs for now.

Connect that high end laptop of yours at 5 GHz and run an Internet speed test. Do you mean connect it wirelessly at 5GHz to the Ubee while I'm upstairs, do a speed test there, and gradually work my way downstairs until my signal and speed begin to degrade to the place where I believe an extender might help?

The router would send a strong 5GHz signal to your range extender, your range extender would then send out a fresh 2.4GHz signal to the cellar. You're talking about the Ubee when you say "router," yes? Because you don't suggest buying a new router till July--just dealing with the extender until then.

Also, why would the extender convert a strong 5GHz signal from the Ubee into a fresh 2.4 GHz signal to the cellar? What causes the conversion?
Edited to add: I think you answered this question in your previous e-mail, the one before this:
Last Resort - a dual band wireless range extender. No cables. Properly configured it might do the job. "Properly configured" would mean one radio (2.4?) connects to the main router wirelessly and the other (5GHz?) radio connects to the clients (or vice-versa).... If a client connects at 5 GHz it will automatically talk to the router at 2.4 (and vice-versa).

Is that what you meant?

This is the Netgear 6150 range extender review. I began to read the review, but much of the tech jargon eludes me (which gets me angry at myself). I did get that the review was from 2015, three years ago, and that its 2.4GHz throughput is somewhat unstable--which I recognize as a negative but have no idea how (how the instability manifests itself).
You mention that there are better range extenders--have you heard of any more recent extenders that have received reviews indicating a more consistent throughput? And do all extenders take 5GHz and convert it to 2.4GHz?

So you are going to load a WiFi analyzer onto your fancy laptop and walk around your house measuring (and recording) signal levels. When? After I've plugged in a range extender? And (sorry) what is a WiFi analyzer--I download it and walk around the house and it tells me where my WiFi signal is strong and where it's weak? Would you be able to steer me to a site that will allow me to download such a program (is it free or relatively affordable--and safe for downloading, as in no viruses piggybacking on it)?

Then in July when you buy your new (whatever) router you can simply turn off your existing equipment and set up your new router, stand alone, no Internet access and walk around with your laptop/WiFi analyzer measuring signals and comparing them to your earlier benchmarks. You mean a WiFi analyzer can determine a WiFi signal coming from a router that isn't even connected to the Internet?

Whew! That's all I can manage for now--this is extremely interesting to me, and very tiring too. Probably because of what it does to my brain. But it's what I must learn. :)

I won't forget to run a speed test near the window downstairs.

Thank you so much, @Klueless!!
 
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Some of the powerline modules have a "pass through" plug receptacle. You don't loose a plug that way. i have one behind my tv that provides ethernet to the tv.
@degrub, I meant to thank you for the pass-through tip--I had seen that several models had that. Thing is, we have one electric outlet with two plugs over by the TV...and each plug currently has a six-plug surge protector in it, with each of the six taken up by something having to do with DirecTV, Spectrum, or the TV and its appurtenances (my husband even has a VHS VCR attached--and he uses it! he's a classic TV series fan and some of his faves are on VHS).

Having a pass-through on a powerline module is a nice idea, but in our case it's not going to help over in that area.
 
<lol>

"Dear Pen Pal",

100 Mbps is your "pinch point". Do you mean by "pinch point" that 100 Mbps is the fastest I can expect from the Ubee router? I ask because the plan advertises that it offers speeds beginning at 100 Mbps, the implication being it starts there but offers faster speeds under (more ideal, as in 2:00 a.m.?) other circumstances.
For example; the Ethernet port on your laptop is capable of 1,000 Mbps and the LAN port on your router is capable of 1,000 Mbps. The modem side of your Ubee, the part that connects to the Internet, can handle 300 Mbps. Your Internet speed is 100 Mbps. Since that is your slowest link that is your "pinch point". You will not see 300 or 1,000 Mbps to your Internet.

Regarding the second part of your question; by us TWC used to sell one speed and deliver something lower; like pay for 35 Mbps but only get 20 Mbps. TWC was hit with a class action law suit. They then started advertising "up to" 35 but the damage was done and their new phraseology remained questionable.

When Spectrum bought out TWC they were left to fix the mess and bad press. So they sold me 60 but delivered 70 Mbps. Then they changed it to 100 but delivered me 120 Mbps. I suspect they are selling you 100 but delivering 118 Mbps to be safe. I suspect they can market the same service differently by you because they're not dealing with a left over mess and law suit. I don't think you will ever see 1,000, 300 or even 150 Mbps at 2AM unless you pay for it. (It's not like off hour cell phone services.)
Husband is already happy so we won't touch him. Husband is not happy with his PC wireless speeds, but he's happy with Spectrum's streaming and Roku connections to our TV (wired, of course). He's afraid that anything I do might jeopardize that. I'd like to help him, and perhaps whatever I end up doing will help him--but I'm going to focus on my basement office PCs for now.
Your husband's Roku is wired. It is very unlikely any wireless tweaking you do will impact this.

That said Internet bandwidth is shared by you and your husband. If you tried hard enough it is possible to consume more than your share. Many routers can be configured to promote equitable sharing. Since you currently make do with 25 Mbps I seriously doubt that you will be doing anything to impact him.
Connect that high end laptop of yours at 5 GHz and run an Internet speed test. Do you mean connect it wirelessly at 5GHz to the Ubee while I'm upstairs, do a speed test there, and gradually work my way downstairs until my signal and speed begin to degrade to the place where I believe an extender might help?
Yes, lacking other "tests" that's exactly what I meant.
The router would send a strong 5GHz signal to your range extender, your range extender would then send out a fresh 2.4GHz signal to the cellar. You're talking about the Ubee when you say "router," yes? Because you don't suggest buying a new router till July--just dealing with the extender until then. Also, why would the extender convert a strong 5GHz signal from the Ubee into a fresh 2.4 GHz signal to the cellar? What causes the conversion?
Yes, the range extender (AKA repeater) would connect to your Ubee until/if you replace it. You could then connect it to your new router in any area that comes up short of your needs. Another upside is that if it helps you will have gained some street cred towards taking your next step : -)

Extenders/repeaters were designed to do exactly that, grab a weakening signal and re-transmit a fresh signal. Kind of like a relay race, as one runner tires he passes the baton to a fresh runner.
This is the Netgear 6150 range extender review. I began to read the review, but much of the tech jargon eludes me (which gets me angry at myself). I did get that the review was from 2015, three years ago, and that its 2.4GHz throughput is somewhat unstable--which I recognize as a negative but have no idea how (how the instability manifests itself).
You mention that there are better range extenders--have you heard of any more recent extenders that have received reviews indicating a more consistent throughput? And do all extenders take 5GHz and convert it to 2.4GHz?
I was disappointed to read about "instability" but, happily, I haven't experienced it. thiggins often reviews products early in their life cycle, some problems get fixed in later updates/releases.

Sorry, I haven't looked at range extenders since I bought mine nearly three years ago.
So you are going to load a WiFi analyzer onto your fancy laptop and walk around your house measuring (and recording) signal levels. When? After I've plugged in a range extender? And (sorry) what is a WiFi analyzer--I download it and walk around the house and it tells me where my WiFi signal is strong and where it's weak? Would you be able to steer me to a site that will allow me to download such a program (is it free or relatively affordable--and safe for downloading, as in no viruses piggybacking on it)?
No. You can test wireless signal levels directly from your old router and later, from your new router. If/when you buy a range extender you can also test signals from it to measure improvements and fine-tune placement.

Yes, you stated it well, a WiFi analyzer shows wireless signal levels (strong, weak and weaker) as well as channels being used by other WiFis including neighbors'. There are many free options available for Windows and smart phones (Android and iPhone). I use Acrylic for Windows. It's free and has a good reputation.
You mean a WiFi analyzer can determine a WiFi signal coming from a router that isn't even connected to the Internet?
Yes, absolutely, it just measures wireless and has nothing to do with Internet.

Also, since you live on an isolated mountain top you can try increasing your 2.4 GHz channel width from 20 to 40 MHz (in case you/they haven't already).

Hopefully playing with your new router will keep you occupied while you're missing your husband come July ...
 
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I think I'll study up on range extenders tomorrow, read more reviews on the one you have, @Klueless, and see if I can get a consensus on quality (consensus is next to impossible on anything having to do with electronics).

But I had to ask you one more thing before I power off; forgive me!:

Also, since you live on an isolated mountain top you can try increasing your 2.4 GHz channel width from 20 to 40 MHz (in case you/they haven't already).

I don't know what it means to change channel width, and I don't know how to determine whether I have 20 or 40 or 800 MHz on my 2.4 GHz channel. :( I know I'll be able to find out if you tell me where I'll find it...but if I start playing around on my own, I'll get into trouble.

I had that happen to me with my Samsung smartphone when I first got it and was trying to configure it; I was so sure of myself. Then somehow I pressed a wrong option and ended up with everything converted into Chinese.

Do you know how hard it is to find the right button to press to return to English when everything is in Chinese?

Thank you again!
 
Do you know how hard it is to find the right button to press to return to English when everything is in Chinese?

If I did something like that I'd just hit the factory reset button and start over:p

I don't know what it means to change channel width,

It's a setting in the configuration of the router, the routers I'm familiar with have it under the wireless management section and it can typically be set to 20, 40, or auto. Auto will let the router determine the best width for the application, setting it to 40 will set it to transmit at the max width.

I had that happen to me with my Samsung smartphone when I first got it

I personally prefer to manage routers through a hard wired device. I also don't use my smart phone for doing much on the internet at all let alone router management, the screen is to small and I get better control with a mouse than I do trying to "click" on stuff with my fat finger that isn't really that fat at all:cool:
 
I agree with FatherLandDecendant.
I don't know what it means to change channel width, and I don't know how to determine whether I have 20 or 40 on my 2.4 GHz channel.
Link to ==> Ubee DDW36C User Manual ... check chapter nine starting on page 74. You can view and/or set channel width and also which channel (channel 1 or 6, if you try a width of 40, is fine until/unless you learn different from your brand new Wifi analyzer : -). Page 90-ish gives a nice explanation of "channels".

Also check "wireless modes" on page 79. If you have no "ancient" devices on 2.4 GHz you might pick up a little speed by eliminating support for the old b/g protocols; try n only?
 
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Thank you, FatherLandDescendant and Klueless!

I will study the Ubee manual (in addition to the other reading on WiFi extenders) to learn how I can tell what bandwidth I'm set to now and what channel(s) have been assigned to the 2.4 and 5 GHz options. (You see, I wasn't sure, Klueless, whether the 20/40 MHz configuration would be something I'd need to change on my PC or on the router.)

And I meant no disrespect over the fact that my phone suddenly converted to Chinese; it's just that I didn't know how to read it. I might have made the mistake that got me Tagalog (the phone offered 15 languages), and I'm afraid I don't read that either. @FatherLandDescendant, you're right: I should have checked the little booklet to find out about a factory reset; that never occurred to me! :D

Right now, it's 5:00 a.m. and I'm downstairs on my older Inspiron 15R (with an Intel Centrino Wireless-N1030, 1x2 bgn card) and I've got concrete walls between me and the Ubee diagonally away from me upstairs. Four bars signal strength, 2.4GHz, radio type is 802.11n.

I ran a speed test just for giggles: 24 ping; 32.43 d/l; 8.47 u/l.
And one other thing I've noticed when I run these tests: Although Spectrum is always shown as my carrier, the "server" is different every time--always within my area (Albany, Schenectady, Hudson, etc.), but always a different one, with the option to change to a "preferred" server. It's interesting to me, and would be even more so if the servers had anything to do with efficiency (signal strength, speed...). But I don't know whether one server is better than another--Spectrum's Ubee apparently searches and chooses the "optimum" one for each day or use or something.

I think an extender, once I get it, may help a little. For the Inspiron, perhaps it might help to get a newer wireless card...?

@Klueless, I will check into removing the b/g protocols on the Ubee (if they're there), leaving just the n (and ac, I assume).

Thank you!
 
I would suggest trying a R7800, RT2600 or 86U and see if it helps, you can always return them. Compared to your all in one modem with internal antennas these units could make a significant difference in range and edge performance. I have 4x4ac DSL modem myself but range and performance pales in comparison to my R7800 with its external antennas and much better WiFi chipset. If the router experiment fails then move on to extenders and power line. Also for like $15 you can replace the Centrino card in the Inspiron 15R for an Intel 7260ac mini pcie card for much better performance/range. Considering it’s an old laptop it wouldn’t void your warranty, actually Dell is very nice about allowing self upgrades, it doesn’t void the warranty anyway and they don’t have white lists to prevent card upgrades like HP, Acer or Lenovo.
 
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Well Good Morning! Didn't know you were NYS too. And what kind of router would you really buy with the money from just one thruway sign?
I will check into removing the b/g protocols on the Ubee (if they're there), leaving just the n (and ac, I assume).
It's a nit but I thought as long as you you were in there and because you like to play... Wireless keeps improving, each improvement is marked with a new annotation. Each improvement tries to maintain backwards compatibility. Sometimes there's a penalty to pay for sharing the sandbox with the old guy. b/g/n protocols run on 2.4. a/n/ac run on 5 GHz. (a is so old/unused sometimes you won't even see it mentioned.)
For the Inspiron, perhaps it might help to get a newer wireless card...?
Maybe ... I'd take it upstairs and run a speed test by the router first.
Although Spectrum is always shown as my carrier, the "server" is different every time
The speed test itself works from a list of possible servers. The speed test puts them through health checks and picks one of the better servers at that moment in time. Since I've an old TWC service sometimes I'll pick a nearby TWC server to "reduce" other considerations.

I'm kinda surprised no one has brought up a "mesh system" yet : -) I'm sure not going to ... I wouldn't have a Klue!
 
G'morning, Rochester, NY! :D

With the money from a thruway sign, I would have Spectrum run cables through all walls on both floors that would enable me to connect with ethernet anywhere--even in the bathroom if I wanted to; I'd also hire a specialist to router/AP up the place properly, for premium wireless connections at every point in the place...and have him or her come every month or two to perform an analysis and revise as needed. Better an expert than a newb!

How's that? :)

From you:

Maybe ... I'd take it upstairs and run a speed test by the router first.

I did that already--that was before I knew about this forum; I was posting on a different forum, and Phoenix, a savior to me, led me to this forum and suggested I start a thread here to help me get expert advice as to the best router or other wireless help I need. (Which is exactly what's happening!)

Anyway: on February 3, I brought up the Inspiron 15R, which offers me 2.4GHz only, and ran the test:

First, the wireless speed test, right next to the Ubee:

37 Mbps (ping/to connect); 20.21 Mbps (download); 7.27 Mbps (upload)

Second, the wired speed test, via ethernet cable:

27 Mbps (ping/to connect); 78.69 Mbps (download); 11.74 (upload)

Now, my new MSI (which has an Intel AC 8265--I might want to swap out for a 9260, but no rush) tested upstairs between 108 and 118 Mbps (download speeds) for wired and wireless, 2.4 and 5 GHz.

Since the conditions were identical when I ran the test upstairs for the Inspiron and the MSI (did them both at the same session), it seems to me that the cards must have been the deciding factor on the speed difference. It would be ideal to have the best cards (faster and most receptive to obstructive materials) and the best router or other wireless support to enhance whatever I have.

(I couldn't do an upstairs test on my HP Pavilion desktop, but it's a low-end model with a Qualcomm Atheros AR9485 802.11 b/g/n adapter for wireless, and the test I ran downstairs yielded a 38 ping; 35.44 Mbps download; and 11.52 Mbps upload speed. With luck, one of the router/extender/AP options may help.)

Thanks again, @Klueless, as always!
 
I will study the Ubee manual (in addition to the other reading on WiFi extenders) to learn how I can tell what bandwidth I'm set to now and what channel(s) have been assigned to the 2.4 and 5 GHz options.

Now that your getting some basic understanding of networking and settings you may want to look at it's a good time to break out the manual. If you don't have an idea of what your looking for or trying to accomplish, a manual is as easy to read as Chinese. Once you have a better grasp on what your trying to accomplish here and how to achieve it needing the manual for simple configuration tasks becomes less and less necessary, though it is ALWAYS a good idea to have a copy of the instructions (or as I call them the destruction's) at hand.

Most routers the defaults are set on an auto setting, it'll choose the channel and channel width automatically, which is fine in a lot of cases, a pain in others. If you have wireless home phones these can cause problems in the 2.4Ghz range so being able to set the router on a different channel that your phones are on comes into play.

I should have checked the little booklet to find out about a factory reset; that never occurred to me!

You didn't then but you know about it now and that is what learning is all about. Bet next time you do something like that the first thing that'll come to mind is the factory reset. Keep in mind though, IF you hit the factory reset that's EXACTLY what it is, any passwords you had changed, configurations you tweaked, channels you set, network names you assigned, ALL of it goes back to default like you just pulled it out of the box for the very first time. So don't try to use the pass word you set, you have to use the factory default one and start all over from the beginning. So it's a good idea to keep a record of how and what you have configured unless you can recall it from memory months or years after you set it up;)

I've got concrete walls between me and the Ubee

That might change things a bit, concrete can inhibit a signal, if it were me I'd find a way to run a wire from the router to the computer inside the concrete boxo_O

I ran a speed test just for giggles:

What are you using to run your speed test? The server that an online speed test chooses will be determined by the site unless you set it manually. You can play around with different servers but ideally the speed test site will choose the best server at the time of the test, and the server it chooses can change as many times as you visit that site on any given day.

It's interesting to me, and would be even more so if the servers had anything to do with efficiency (signal strength, speed...)
24 ping; 32.43 d/l; 8.47 u/l.

The server the site chooses CAN impact the outcome of the test, but your results can be impacted by the fact that your on a wireless connection inside a concrete box too;)
 
Anyway: on February 3, I brought up the Inspiron 15R, which offers me 2.4GHz only, and ran the test:

First, the wireless speed test, right next to the Ubee:

37 Mbps (ping/to connect); 20.21 Mbps (download); 7.27 Mbps (upload)

Second, the wired speed test, via ethernet cable:

27 Mbps (ping/to connect); 78.69 Mbps (download); 11.74 (upload)

Now, my new MSI (which has an Intel AC 8265--I might want to swap out for a 9260, but no rush) tested upstairs between 108 and 118 Mbps (download speeds) for wired and wireless, 2.4 and 5 GHz.
Ouch! Sounds like my ancient Dell (and sounds like good ol' 100 Mbps Ethernet). Based on your side-by-side tests I'm really liking @avtella 's suggestion!
... for like $15 you can replace the Centrino card in the Inspiron 15R for an Intel 7260ac mini pcie card for much better performance/range. Considering it’s an old laptop it wouldn’t void your warranty, actually Dell is very nice about allowing self upgrades, it doesn’t void the warranty anyway and they don’t have white lists to prevent card upgrades like HP, Acer or Lenovo.
(Myself, I wouldn't have a Klue how to open my laptop : -)

I forgot, what speeds were you seeing at 2.4GHz on your new ultra laptop in the cellar? Did you run one from the cellar window yet? Just curious ...
 
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With the money from a thruway sign, I would have Spectrum run cables through all walls on both floors that would enable me to connect with ethernet anywhere--even in the bathroom if I wanted to; I'd also hire a specialist to router/AP up the place properly, for premium wireless connections at every point in the place...and have him or her come every month or two to perform an analysis and revise as needed. Better an expert than a newb!
How's that?
Now that is just awesome. Ethernet connected, 4K streaming TV in the bathroom ... complete with whirlpool, fully stocked wine cooler ... all controlled with Alexa (wired of course).
 
Ouch! Sounds like my ancient Dell (and sounds like good ol' 100 Mbps Ethernet). Based on your side-by-side tests I'm really liking @avtella 's suggestion!

(Myself, I wouldn't have a Klue how to open my laptop : -)

I forgot, what speeds were you seeing at 2.4GHz on your new ultra laptop in the cellar? Did you run one from the cellar window yet? Just curious ...


It’s quite easy, as soon as you take out the bottom plate/cover of your laptop, you should see the WiFi card held in place by a single screw. Just detach tips of the black and white wires from the old card and take the card out. Insert the new card and connect the black and white antenna wires to the their respective color coded receptacles which are marked on the card it self. I can post images/guide later if you want.


Pretty much most old laptops up to around 2014-2015 use standard half mini pcie cards (ie 6230n, 6300n, 7260ac) and current gen laptops generally use M.2 (ie 7265ac, 8260ac, 8265ac, 9260ac)
 
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@avtella, hi!

The routers are beginning to sound more appealing every day, although I still have extender reading to do.

In the meantime, I wanted to thank you for this suggestion:

Also for like $15 you can replace the Centrino card in the Inspiron 15R for an Intel 7260ac mini pcie card for much better performance/range.

The card is a bit more expensive on Amazon (haven't checked Staples; Best Buy is too far away to be worth a lesser price), and I will ask the tech person at Staples if she can install it for me (and for how much).

Because I just watched a YouTube video on how to swap out the wireless card on an Inspiron 15R and by the time the guy got to the fourth stage of screws that had to be removed and then turned the laptop back up to remove the keyboard, I turned him off.

There is no way I will be able to do that myself without destroying something or losing something (not to mention not doing something first that I should have done but didn't, like providing a spare source of Internet connectivity or downloading the drivers first or who knows what). But if it can be done, I can have the techie do it.

And then maybe one day, when it's time to say good-bye to the Inspiron for good, I can try to do it myself.

But I can get the card--and if she can install it, and if that makes the Inspiron pick up speed, I owe you for that suggestion!:)
 
It’s quite easy, as soon as you take out the bottom plate/cover of your laptop, you should see the WiFi card held in place by a single screw. Just detach tips of the black and white wires from the old card and take the card out. Insert the new card and connect the black and white antenna wires to the their respective color coded receptacles which are marked on the card it self. I can post images/guide later if you want.


Pretty much most old laptops up to around 2014-2015 use standard half mini pcie cards (ie 6230n, 6300n, 7260ac) and current gen laptops generally use M.2 (ie 7265ac, 8260ac, 8265ac, 9260ac)

Hi, @avtella,

I think you posted how easy it is to replace the wireless card just as I was posting how unbelievably difficult it was!

Not sure if moderators allow a YouTube link, but this is what I was able to watch only to the part where the guy starts to take off the keyboard:

 
Hi, @Klueless,

what speeds were you seeing at 2.4GHz on your new ultra laptop in the cellar? Did you run one from the cellar window yet? Just curious ...

My MSI defaults to 2.4GHz, probably because the signal is easier for it to get hold of.

I moved the laptop over to the window and held it up nearer the panes, and did the test.
(@FatherLandDescendant, I use speedtest.net for these tests; I know you asked me what I use.)

By the window, which is about five feet to the left of the desk where the MSI sits and about five yards to the left and downstairs of the Ubee, the test results were:

23 ping
96.68 d/l
10.98 u/l


At my desk, with the MSI sitting on it--a much more natural position to work in, I must admit, and about five feet closer to the Ubee (but still downstairs from it)--the test results:

23 ping
99.98 d/l
11.72 u/l

I connected to 5GHz and went back to the window--and got inferior results:

23 ping
38.25 d/l
7.97 u/l

I think this whole issue is fascinating. It's hailing outside right now, with the sun out. I wonder what kind of speed I'd get if I went outside? :confused:
 
Hi, @avtella,

I think you posted how easy it is to replace the wireless card just as I was posting how unbelievably difficult it was!

Not sure if moderators allow a YouTube link, but this is what I was able to watch only to the part where the guy starts to take off the keyboard:


Vast majority of laptops you only have to take out the bottom plate in mine it’s only one screw at worst maybe 6-8 screws on some. Most Dell’s and most other laptops in general aren’t like the one in that video fortunately.

Below is an example of my model (Inspiron 7577) when I meant simple :), most should be somewhat like this. Most Latitudes and Precisions should also be pretty simple, at least the ones from the mid-late 2000s onwards.
csm_MG_1857_7bb65d9dd4.jpg
 
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