New house. Repurposing phone Cat5e. Looking for advise.

[ncfoster]

You could use a structured media enclosure like Leviton sells but it's not deep enough if you want to install a bunch of active gear in it. It's fine for a patch panel, a switch, a cable amp, a modem, and even a small UPS if you get the extension bracket. Mounts in the wall. But if you want to start installing NAS units, it's not a good choice. But it's a neat, unobtrusive solution.

https://www.leviton.com/en/products/residential/networking/inside-the-structured-media-enclosure

Yes. I had something very much like this in my previous home. It did the trick at the start, but when I started adding to it, it didn't grow very gracefully. Each addition was overpriced and not exactly what I wanted. I could go this way, but it would not be my preference.

But then to achieve a neat solution, you're looking at $65 just for the punch down for 12 Cat 5e ports with the 476TM-512 , and $145!! for a 24 port Cat 6 version. That's heinous for what amounts to a branded patch panel.

I've got a similar issue as the OP, except the builder left all the wires hanging inside a structured wiring box. Helpfully, there's no slack at all for the Cat5e, so to avoid dropping $145 as above, I'm going to have to mount a patch panel vertically right next to the wiring enclosure just so I can then use patch cables to reach a switch on a cheap-o open rackmount setup with a 24 gigabit switch that will only run $100.

Your sentiments are pretty much exactly what had me going in the direction of something a little more open and flexible (even generic), versus proprietary stuff. Plus, I already have the switch that would never fit in that.

 

[TexasTiger]

This is $32 (Amazon)
Monoprice 4U 7(H) x 19(W) x 12(D) Inches Wall Mount Bracket (108627)

and this Startech is $38
12in Deep Wall Mounting Bracket for Patch Panel - Wall Mount Bracket - 6U

You can also stick a shelf in one for $20 to put a cable modem, etc. on for anything that won't mount.

 

[sfx2000]

It is all RG6. The one that is cut and the one that is connected to the small in-line amp appear to be a pair from an inactive DirecTV dish, so I don't think that cable will lead anywhere useful.

As far as MOCA goes, I have a Tivo Roamio and 2 Tivo Minis that will be part of the setup. The Roamio will serve as a MOCA bridge to the Minis. I am unfamiliar with other applications of MOCA or how I can leverage this to my advantage. I am definitely glad to have an additional avenue to pursue. If I am already using the Roamio as a MOCA bridge, how might this look? Would I just put a MOCA modem at a location where the coax runs, but CAT5e does not?

With DirecTV - yeah, they use RG6 - found out the hard way after pulling new coax after a Cox SDV upgrade (existing cable was 30 plus years old, and horrible, even for analog on CATV or Antenna).

With MOCA - consider the following...

RG6 - typical with Dish/DirecTV installs
RG11 - newer cable TV installs
RG59 - older cable and over the air antenna <-- this was my problem

Attenuation over 100ft span... (source - mocaalliance)

Splitters on the Cable span... watch out for old school stuff, but age of your new house, shouldn't be a problem - but look at the splitters... most have the range printed on them, if they cap out at 1GHz, swap them out... and with the old DirecTV install, worth looking at before deploying MOCA...

 

[tannebil]

A 42" enclosure with an extension has quite a bit of space compared to the 28" one that is seen more commonly. I installed mine back in 2007 for less than $200. I'd worked a lot with racks in the prior 20 years in IT but even if I'd had the space or the budget (good racks are expensive), my experience is they are actually harder to work with than open shelving.

Pay your money and take your chances.

 

[System Error Message]

even cat5e itself has a lot of uses, if you can get cat 6 even better.
You can use it for video such as HDMI passthrough using 2 ethernet cables, you can use it for POE, basically anything you can use copper for you can use ethernet for. Its not so great for electricals as the conductor size is small.

 

[coxhaus]

I've got a similar issue as the OP, except the builder left all the wires hanging inside a structured wiring box. Helpfully, there's no slack at all for the Cat5e, so to avoid dropping $145 as above, I'm going to have to mount a patch panel vertically right next to the wiring enclosure just so I can then use patch cables to reach a switch on a cheap-o open rackmount setup with a 24 gigabit switch that will only run $100.

The wires left in the wall are info structure solid core wires. They are not patch cables which are twisted wire which is designed to be moved around. The solid core wire needs to be terminate in info structure so it is not moved. And then a patch cable is used to connect to the switch. This also frees you from having to have a switch close to the wire termination. The solid core wire CAT5e can break if you use it as a patch cable.

 

[ncfoster]

I ended up ordering this wall mount bracket:

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10516&cs_id=1051602&p_id=8628&seq=1&format=2

I am debating how to mount it now. I believe that I will have to put some sort of wood between the studs. I assume the general preference for mounting would be to use two horizontal 2x4s attached on both sides, then put the mounting bolts/anchors in those. For cable management and simplicity's sake, I wonder whether I am sacrificing much if I choose instead to have a 2x4 on either side nailed vertically. My thinking is that anything horizontal is going to make me think a lot more about specifically where every wire is going to run, and maybe have to drill some very large holes through it anyhow.

 

[coxhaus]

Since your CAT5e wire is coming down the wall I would mount it against the wall with the patch panel on the top so the wire enters from the top. You need to put something over the edge so it does not cut the wire over time. Maybe some pipe insulator.

 

[ncfoster]

Since your CAT5e wire is coming down the wall I would mount it against the wall with the patch panel on the top so the wire enters from the top. You need to put something over the edge so it does not cut the wire over time. Maybe some pipe insulator.

Perhaps I omitted an important detail. It does not fit in the opening. Since it is in the corner of the basement, the stud spacing is such that the cabinet cannot mount flush against the foundation. Thus, my question as to whether 2x4s horizontally or vertically within the frame is the next best option.

 

[coxhaus]

Either 2x4 or plywood. Are your studs on 16 inch centers?

 

[ncfoster]

Either 2x4 or plywood. Are your studs on 16 inch centers?

They appear to be 24 inch on center across most of the walls, but in that corner, there is just slightly more than a 17 inch gap. I am not thinking that moving the wires is going to be feasible, so working with what I have.

I think that I am inclined to use 2x4s. How would you orient and attach them for the best results?

 

[coxhaus]

You need to do what works for your wall.

I am not sure why you are thinking about moving wires. If it was something I said then my only thinking was you could start high with the rack so you would have more slack in the wire. I would not lay the wire across the edge of the cabinet without a soft buffer.

 

[ncfoster]

You need to do what works for your wall.

I am not sure why you are thinking about moving wires. If it was something I said then my only thinking was you could start high with the rack so you would have more slack in the wire. I would not lay the wire across the edge of the cabinet without a soft buffer.

Yes, I think starting high is probably a good idea. Thank you for the idea regarding the soft edge as well.

I know I am a bit all over the place. The comment about moving was just my internal dialog that it would have been easier if this had fallen in a different location.

I am more technically inclined than I am "handy", so I am trying to decide what I need in terms of the lumber, nails, bolts. The bracket didn't come with its own bolts either.

 

[gyoung345]

I am interested in this thread as well. I have a similar situation where I want to convert the phone jacks around my house to ethernet. Years ago, I remember seeing at a friends house a patch panel where he could move the CAT5 cable from one patch panel to another to convert the room RJ45 jack to either a data jack or a phone jack. An RJ11 phone cable could be plugged in assuming you moved the room in the basement from the patch panel for the network to the patch panel for the phone system.

I cannot find ways to do that. Probably because the terms I am using aren't getting any hits. I assume the punch down block goes to the ATT block outside the house is connected in serial so all the phone lines feed out to ATT. I would like to allow for terminations to choose if it is a line out to ATT or a data jack in my network. Does that make sense?

 

[CaptainSTX]

I am interested in this thread as well. I have a similar situation where I want to convert the phone jacks around my house to ethernet. Years ago, I remember seeing at a friends house a patch panel where he could move the CAT5 cable from one patch panel to another to convert the room RJ45 jack to either a data jack or a phone jack. An RJ11 phone cable could be plugged in assuming you moved the room in the basement from the patch panel for the network to the patch panel for the phone system.

I cannot find ways to do that. Probably because the terms I am using aren't getting any hits. I assume the punch down block goes to the ATT block outside the house is connected in serial so all the phone lines feed out to ATT. I would like to allow for terminations to choose if it is a line out to ATT or a data jack in my network. Does that make sense?

Here is a solution that in theory may work but I have never tried it.

1. Convert and be sure that all jacks in your home are wired as RJ-45 data jacks preferably pinned 568B. (If you have problems try the 568A pinning. )

2. In your wiring center remove the 66 block and replace it with one or more RJ-11 surface mounted jacks. A single jack with a two or three way RJ-11 splitter will also work.

3. Purchase cables that have a RJ-11 jack on one end and a RJ-45 jack on the other end. These cables are available on Amazon if you search for RJ-45 - RJ-11 adapters. You will need a pair of cables for each location where you want telephone service.

4. At your wiring center take one cable and plug the RJ-11 end into the newly installed telephone jack and plug the RJ-45 end into the patch panel for the jack going to the location that you want telephone service.

5. At the location where you want to install the telephone use the other cable from the pair you purchased as the base cord for your telephone. It should work.

6. Be sure to mark the jack at the remote location as being telephone ONLY! No telling what would happen to an Ethernet adapter if it was plugged into the jack and 90V ring voltage came down the line. It probably would not be good.

 

[gyoung345]

Thanks for that! I'll take some time to digest...

Here is a solution that in theory may work but I have never tried it.

1. Convert and be sure that all jacks in your home are wired as RJ-45 data jacks preferably pinned 568B. (If you have problems try the 568A pinning. )

2. In your wiring center remove the 66 block and replace it with one or more RJ-11 surface mounted jacks. A single jack with a two or three way RJ-11 splitter will also work.

3. Purchase cables that have a RJ-11 jack on one end and a RJ-45 jack on the other end. These cables are available on Amazon if you search for RJ-45 - RJ-11 adapters. You will need a pair of cables for each location where you want telephone service.

4. At your wiring center take one cable and plug the RJ-11 end into the newly installed telephone jack and plug the RJ-45 end into the patch panel for the jack going to the location that you want telephone service.

5. At the location where you want to install the telephone use the other cable from the pair you purchased as the base cord for your telephone. It should work.

6. Be sure to mark the jack at the remote location as being telephone ONLY! No telling what would happen to an Ethernet adapter if it was plugged into the jack and 90V ring voltage came down the line. It probably would not be good.