[Fork] Asuswrt-Merlin 374.43 LTS releases (Archive)

[telUK]

I might try this v14 later or tomorrow and will report back on my settings for the above.

Although its not required I might do a nvram reset this time as I have not done a reset for a few earlier updates.

Currently on v13 on n66u.

cheers John

 

[john9527]

I get an address via LAN and WLAN connecting to default ASUS SSID, but i still can't access the GUI.

I found the problem causing the loss of access to the gui after a factory reset. If you run into it, just power cycle the router and it will correct itself (the code I add to avoid having to do a factory reset when moving between fork levels will correct the problem on a normal boot).

I'll put out a V14E1 later this week with the fix (there are a couple of other posts I want to understand first).

 

[john9527]

Ugh. Have not figured out this plink thing. John, could you try running a script from windows cmd line using plink? I would like to see if you get the same errors.

It's getting late, so will follow up with some more info later......but for a quick fix add the following line after the shebang to scripts you want to run with plink.

echo $PATH | grep -q "\/sbin" || export PATH=$PATH:/sbin:/usr/sbin

 

[Deleted member 27741]

Ah, something about paths. I thought that may be it, but the best I could do is tell you the login directory of interactive plink.

The workaround works perfectly. I hope I can understand your fix as I get to learn something new so that is cool.

Also, this firmware looks and works GREAT. I see you went ahead and improved the text inputs in multiple places, maybe everywhere? Niiiiiiccce!

 

[endlesszeal]

I found the problem causing the loss of access to the gui after a factory reset. If you run into it, just power cycle the router and it will correct itself (the code I add to avoid having to do a factory reset when moving between fork levels will correct the problem on a normal boot).

I'll put out a V14E1 later this week with the fix (there are a couple of other posts I want to understand first).

Wow thank you, that was super fast.

What we are trying to see if is the close proximity of router to client is actually causing the problem. Thinking about it, I actually remembered a couple of cases where it seems like 'too much power' was causing wireless errors.

802.11d I believe is the basic power negotiation protocol (although it's going away). I'm in the US as well, but have actually had the best results with d+h streaming live TV from an HDHomeRun Prime (about 20ft distance, 10-15Mbps with the standard power setting).

Under the setting for Regulation for V14, the choices are D or disable, no D+H.

Unfortunately, the settings did not resolve the pausing/stuttering from either local or internet streams. I did however, notice an increase in overall reception. My master room gets full signal as before it was 75% +/- 5%.

Im trying to update to the newest version of Kodi, clearing cache and rebooting the clients.

 

[john9527]

Ah, something about paths. I thought that may be it, but the best I could do is tell you the login directory of interactive plink.

Some follow up info...I was able to track down the change that caused the change in behavior from V13 to V14. I must have missed something in my dropbear update. I redid it and in V14E1 it will work as before.
So the one-liner I gave you can be considered a 'workaround'....the workaround won't cause any problems if you leave it in, but it won't be necessary any more after the next release.

Thanks for providing an easy to recreate example for me....it really helped in tracking things down.

 

[john9527]

After updating to John's firmware, my TV has been acting weird recently: distorted signal or even lost signal. I tried changing to different wireless channels but it didn't help. Never experience that problem with Merlin's or stock firmwares. My RT-N66U is about 3 ft from the TV and the internet-cable TV splitter

Any suggestion? Thank you!

Sorry for not understanding completely....are you running a wireless signal to your TV that is having problems or are you having a problem with the TV being connected to the cable?

If the latter, this fork may have a somewhat stronger signal, but should be nothing that would cause interference problems and never heard of any before.

 

[Deleted member 27741]

Some follow up info...I was able to track down the change that caused the change in behavior from V13 to V14. I must have missed something in my dropbear update. I redid it and in V14E1 it will work as before.
So the one-liner I gave you can be considered a 'workaround'....the workaround won't cause any problems if you leave it in, but it won't be necessary any more after the next release.

Thanks for providing an easy to recreate example for me....it really helped in tracking things down.

I have noticed once you got things working for me that dropbear is faster. Hooray dropbear update! Thanks again for all you do sir you are a gentleman and a scholar.

 

[john9527]

d@000111 - To be honest, I'm really not sure which implementation is 'right'. While researching, I came across this....

If you simply connect to a remote host via ssh or plink, it will start the login account's default shell. If that shell is bash, bash will automatically source .bash_profile.

If you connect to a remote host via ssh or plink asking for a command to be executed, ssh will try to execute just that command.

Now, we use sh as the shell, but I think the concept should be the same, and the change was that the path wasn't fully populated as in the shell. It may be a good practice to just include the path on any commands in scripts that you want to execute remotely.

 

[Gravityz]

is there a fat channel intolerant setting in this firmware?

the reason i am asking. in the old fork versions(v7-V9) i noticed that i got 40Mhz bandwitdh most of the time on 2.4Ghz(11+9)
now after v9 i hardly see that anymore. Sure i can set the bandwitdh to 40mhz fixed but then my tv sometimes looses it's connection(it says it is connected on the router but the connection does not work). i suspect it has something to do with the 40mhz fixed setting

 

[john9527]

is there a fat channel intolerant setting in this firmware?

the reason i am asking. in the old fork versions(v7-V9) i noticed that i got 40Mhz bandwitdh most of the time on 2.4Ghz(11+9)
now after v9 i hardly see that anymore. Sure i can set the bandwitdh to 40mhz fixed but then my tv sometimes looses it's connection(it says it is connected on the router but the connection does not work). i suspect it has something to do with the 40mhz fixed setting

Sorry, but no changes to the wireless over the life of the fork and I'm not aware of any user settings that changes the auto bandwidth.. If your area is anything like mine, my suspicion would be more access points (or maybe some other noise source) coming online and making it more difficult to maintain the higher channel width. Personally, I've had about 4 new access points show up on the 2.4GHz band over the last couple of months..

 

[daicon]

Hello,
My router is Ac68u. I installed this firmware today, but I'm having a lot of problems of navigation.

I have internet via USB modem Huawei e3372 4g. Everything is set automatically when performing a factory reset. It has created a dual WAN, but I do not understand why.

Navigation in Google is often blocked, I have to press F5 several times.

Youtube does not load the videos, it very slow. It detect my connection seems slow, since all the videos load me the minimum resolution.
However in speed test results I get 60MB.

Even some online games like Diablo 3 does not connect me.

I tried opening all ports, but nothing.

I have tested the modem directly connected to the PC and everything works properly.

I tried it with the factory firmware, but always the same result.
Can someone help me out?

 

[daicon]

If you come from Asus stock or Rmerlin FW you absolutly need to "Factory defaults" after flashing
Same if you come from V14

I mentioned that I have done a factory reset. The result is the same. :-(

 

[daicon]

If you come from Asus stock or Rmerlin FW you absolutly need to "Factory defaults" after flashing
Same if you come from V14

If you still got issues you can try this : clearing Nvram
Power off your router then Hold WPS while powering on, keep WPS press until leds in front begins to flash rapidly(10-15 sec approx), then release WPS and let your router reboot (2-3 min approx).

I too clean Nvram with result same. :-(

 

[rtn66uftw]

Sorry for not understanding completely....are you running a wireless signal to your TV that is having problems or are you having a problem with the TV being connected to the cable?

If the latter, this fork may have a somewhat stronger signal, but should be nothing that would cause interference problems and never heard of any before.

The later: cable goes into a splitter which has 2 outlets, one to the TV and the other one to a modem which is connected to RT-N66U. I'll try to move the splitter further away from the wireless router to see if the problem fixed

 

[john9527]

The later: cable goes into a splitter which has 2 outlets, one to the TV and the other one to a modem which is connected to RT-N66U. I'll try to move the splitter further away from the wireless router to see if the problem fixed

That is definitely a new one...
The other thing I would try is replacing the splitter (they do go bad....speaking from personal experience and a couple of days of driving myself crazy )

 

[Gravityz]

ok thanks John,

i suspected something like that.

my tv does not seem to bother
if i set 20Mhz the connection is 104Mbps
if i set 40Mhz the connection is 104Mbps

My foscam camera however does bother
if i set 20Mhz the connection is 72Mbps
if i set 40Mhz the connection is 150Mbps

thanks
will set it to auto for a while to see if my tv keeps it's connection

Sorry, but no changes to the wireless over the life of the fork and I'm not aware of any user settings that changes the auto bandwidth.. If your area is anything like mine, my suspicion would be more access points (or maybe some other noise source) coming online and making it more difficult to maintain the higher channel width. Personally, I've had about 4 new access points show up on the 2.4GHz band over the last couple of months..

 

[Gravityz]

That is definitely a new one...
The other thing I would try is replacing the splitter (they do go bad....speaking from personal experience and a couple of days of driving myself crazy )

or maybe connect the splitter to earth.

in my area(netherlands) the cable which comes in first goes through a galvanic circuit
this is because the cable company put's a negative voltage to the cable shielding to avoid corrosion to the cable in the ground
After the galvanic circuit you can do what you want( eg put splitters in)

my setup is the same as yours.
i recently changed the cabling because i suspected 4G interference.(4G and cable both use 800Mhz)
you should use Hischmann Koka 9TS cable which is triple shielded

also Hirsmann has a 4G/LTE suppressor.
may putting some of these in at the beginning and and of you cable will help

Cable is 800Mhz, wifi is 2.4/5Ghz so i doubt wifi is the issue. i would look at the 4G settings in your router
you might also want to check all the switching powersupplies(the one from your router) which are known to create interference.

 

[Builder71]

Thx for V14 John.

I skipped some when there was a discussion about Diffie Hellman parameters.
(Key lenght if I recall.)
I'm not sure what this was about.

I always generate my own keys/certs.
With -14j9527, should I do this again with other DH key?
(I now use a 1024 bit long DH.)

 

[john9527]

Thx for V14 John.

I skipped some when there was a discussion about Diffie Hellman parameters.
(Key lenght if I recall.)
I'm not sure what this was about.

I always generate my own keys/certs.
With -14j9527, should I do this again with other DH key?
(I now use a 1024 bit long DH.)

You don't have to, but may want to.....history cliff-notes
- older code automatically generated a 512bit DH key
- an OpenSSL update required at least a 768bit key, with future plans to require 1024bit
- starting with V13, firmware checked for at least a 1024bit key, and would automatically update it to a 2048bit pre-gen'd key if a lesser key was found.
- V14, no change to the above.

So, nothing is required for the V14 update. I say you may 'want' to, because most security guidelines are actually recommending a 2048bit key now.