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Just did another few tests this morning and I'm still getting full speeds. So happy!

I guess what I'm trying to understand now is why channel 149 seems to have made such a difference when my 5GHz wi-fi scan shows that I'm not competing with any other APs. There are others as you can see but their signal strength is very low. Again, my network is EQUINOX and EQUINOX5G. I think my next door neighbour on one side is PCR and Gateway20 on the other side.

i-ZpcRsTw-X2.png
I couldn't say for sure, but I've noticed there are certain channels that just seem to function better than others, and it seems to be different for everyone. Even if the channel shows clean signal and low interference.
My easiest solution to fixing WiFi problems is to use Ethernet whenever possible, but there are times it's not possible everywhere, or all devices.
 
Just did another few tests this morning and I'm still getting full speeds. So happy!

I guess what I'm trying to understand now is why channel 149 seems to have made such a difference when my 5GHz wi-fi scan shows that I'm not competing with any other APs. There are others as you can see but their signal strength is very low. Again, my network is EQUINOX and EQUINOX5G. I think my next door neighbour on one side is PCR and Gateway20 on the other side.

i-ZpcRsTw-X2.png
This RF picture is taken from what location ? With what device ?
Try from other typical locations where your clients are located and from different clients ( different receiver capability).
These are likely artificial shapes ( notice how they are all the same ?) that only differ by the estimated signal strength measured by the receiver antenna. A real RF plot should be very messy with reflections and with inside and outside interference overlaid on the ideal.
 
This RF picture is taken from what location ? With what device ?
Try from other typical locations where your clients are located and from different clients ( different receiver capability).
These are likely artificial shapes ( notice how they are all the same ?) that only differ by the estimated signal strength measured by the receiver antenna. A real RF plot should be very messy with reflections and with inside and outside interference overlaid on the ideal.

The screenshot was from my MacBook Pro and I was sitting about 10 feet from the router with line of sight. Maybe I don't have the right software to show a more detailed view.
 
The screenshot was from my MacBook Pro and I was sitting about 10 feet from the router with line of sight. Maybe I don't have the right software to show a more detailed view.
@seadragon : I think you need to change the view in WiFi explorer for the information being requested here. I forgot the mention this to you when I suggested the software. With your SSID selected, choose the spectrum, or signal strength tabs and take a screenshot of each and post it here.
 
This RF picture is taken from what location ? With what device ?
Try from other typical locations where your clients are located and from different clients ( different receiver capability).
These are likely artificial shapes ( notice how they are all the same ?) that only differ by the estimated signal strength measured by the receiver antenna. A real RF plot should be very messy with reflections and with inside and outside interference overlaid on the ideal.
@degrub: I was helping Seadragon on another forum, didn't realize he had also come here and recommended the software. They do provide a professional version, but for a home network, I didn't think it was necessary as I didn't get the pro version either. Anyway after he posts screenshots of the signal strength and spectrum views, it should be should show the information you're referencing here. If you need the pro version @seadragon, they do offer a 7 day free trial, but to buy it is $130 USD, where as the standard is only $20 USD.
 
not needed for home use, just pointing out that the picture was idealized since he was trying to understand why control channel 149 was giving higher throughput.

As Seadragon discovered, you have to try different channels to find the "best" throughput as each wireless environment is slightly different.
 
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not needed for home use, just pointing out that the picture was idealized since he was trying to understand why control channel 149 was giving higher throughput.
OK, I also wanted to mention that I had given him the suggestions and mention that I had forgotten to tell him to check the more advanced details. Anyway, I'm glad he's getting his speeds now, and is happy with the router.

I on the other hand have started to wonder if WiFi 6 is a bunch of hype based on some of my own experiences and what I've read. Let me provide examples of why I'm having this thought process:

I typically don't use WiFi for anything but my iPhone, iPad, and smart home devices, be it Google speakers, Amazon speakers, or smart plugs / bulbs.

Anyway, I have a late 2013, 13" MacBook Pro, that's pretty much been retired, other than for occasional testing of various types. Anyway, at the end of April, I upgraded to Spectrum's internet Gig package from the 400 Mbps package I had, because I wanted to see if it actually made a long term difference, and the price was right finally.

Anyway, my main test device is my late 2015, 27" iMac which is hard wired by Gigabit Ethernet, that goes to a gig switch and then into the router. I do it this way vs directly running to the router to cut down on long cable runs, and it's cleaner, plus when changing routers, it only means there are two cables to unplug and plug back in, the switch and connection to the modem.

With the initial details out of the way; whenever I run a Speedtest from the MacBook, using the native Speedtest app that Okkla provides, I can get up to 930 Mbps down, and of course my 40 Mbps upload. The MacBook Pro is 1st generation WiFi 5, I think it's either 1200, or 1300. Anyway, with my iPhone 12 Pro Max, it's officially Wifi 6 supported, and I only get into the 800's download. Now, granted, that's probably because it's a phone vs computer and the components are smaller and lower powered. It just makes me question the integrity of the marketing, and how reliable and trustworthy the info coming from these forums and tech news is when I personally see an older device perform better than a new one, and the older device existed before the newer standards.
Now, granted, I don't think my older AC only routers could get the MacBook Pro so high up on the scale of speed, but it's not using AX on the newer routers either.

Also note, that currently Apple devices do NOT support 160 Mhz, they are capped at 80. I think it's because of the chipsets used, rather than it being specifically related to Apple. At least that was the impression I had after reading several sources.
When I had the 400 Mbps plan, it really didn't seem to matter what router I used, they all worked about the same. It was after getting gigabit that I noticed the more random results over wireless. Wired, is consistent.

One final thought, the Wifi 6 routers were consistent with speeds between the TP-Link, and Asus models. I never tried the C4000 as the main router again after disconnecting it.
 
Just did another few tests this morning and I'm still getting full speeds. So happy!

I guess what I'm trying to understand now is why channel 149 seems to have made such a difference when my 5GHz wi-fi scan shows that I'm not competing with any other APs. There are others as you can see but their signal strength is very low. Again, my network is EQUINOX and EQUINOX5G. I think my next door neighbour on one side is PCR and Gateway20 on the other side.

i-ZpcRsTw-X2.png


I don't think you read too far into that link I sent in Post 93? :)

To quote myself, from the link in that post, above:

This speaks volumes of the interference that non-Wi-Fi sources can inflict on our networks and unless you have expensive equipment or hire a firm to do a full site survey (good for only 'at that time'), makes using apps and other Wi-Fi 'tuning' utilities an exercise in frustration. Not to mention time poorly spent when the goals are to get a stable, fast, and reliable network up and running in the least amount of time.



What a client device can 'see' or resolve vs. what a router sees and makes adjustments to its RF circuits can be two very different things. Not only do most WiFi 'apps' not show channel utilization percentages, but all of them (at least the cheap/free ones) can't show any non-WiFi sources of interference (at all). That is why testing each channel properly is required. Your environment, your client devices, and the time selected to test those channels all come into play to determine what is 'best' for you. No app, no guide, and no other 'theoretical' deducing can lead to the best control channel selection (except by chance), for your particular router/firmware, client devices/drivers, and environment (including WiFi, non-WiFi, and construction materials used, etc.).

Here's one more quote that is important to keep in mind too.

As you can see from the above, what a utility like inssider or anything similar indicates has nothing to do with what is required to find the optimal channel for each band of a WiFi router in a specific environment.

On the contrary, it only gets in the way and makes more work and takes more time for little to no benefit (except maybe a bit of information).

In addition, during my testing (above) with a utility like inssider running, the throughput, consistency and latency were usually far worse than when the utility was not running. This was my final indicator that the benefits were few and far between for this type of utility. I haven't used one since. And have missed the 'information' it offered even less.


When I tune a network's Control Channels, I don't necessarily select the channel that gives the fastest results on speed tests. Rather, I choose the channel that gives the lowest latency to the network, overall. This is appreciated by most people over mere 'bragging right' top speeds. It may still be worth it for you to look at the links I've provided and continue to see if a better control channel is available, even above your current discovery of Channel 149. :)
 
you can see the overlap

You only see what channels the other routers are using. You don't see how busy the channels are and what the available bandwidth is. This is a common mistake when using Wi-Fi Analyzers - decisions are made based on less important data shown, as seen from the client. The better source of information is what the router sees about the environment in Asuswrt-Merlin WiFi Radar.

1655567311311.png
 
You only see what channels the other routers are using. You don't see how busy the channels are and what the available bandwidth is. This is a common mistake when using Wi-Fi Analyzers - decisions are made based on less important data shown, as seen from the client. The better source of information is what the router sees about the environment in Asuswrt-Merlin WiFi Radar.

View attachment 41948
I had read that WiFi. Analyzers aren't always the most reliable to go on. Really, I haven't really needed to because I don't rely on Wifi enough where it natters. Going forward though, I'll take the time to learn the tools that might be useful going forward. With that said, I am glad that AsusWRT gives the signal strength of connected devices in the clients list. a few of my smart bulbs show only 2 bars of signal. However, it's probably no fault other than the bulbs being in metal and glass fixtures, which seems to be the two main things that stop wifi signal.
 
a few of my smart bulbs show only 2 bars of signal

Again, there is a better place to look - System Log, Wireless Log:

1655568012933.png


If you see -65dBm or better (lower number) on 2.4GHz, your IoT is just fine.
 
Again, there is a better place to look - System Log, Wireless Log:

View attachment 41950

If you see -65dBm or better (lower number) on 2.4GHz, your IoT is just fine.
this is my log for the 2.4ghz band:
SSID: "iFrog Media"
noise: -85 dBm Channel: 6
BSSID: 7C:10:C9:E7:1E:68 Capability: ESS RRM
Supported Rates: [ 1(b) 2(b) 5.5(b) 6 9 11(b) 12 18 24 36 48 54 ]
VHT Capable:
Chanspec: 2.4GHz channel 6 20MHz (0x1006)
Primary channel: 6
HT Capabilities: 40Mhz SGI20 SGI40
Supported HT MCS : 0-23
Supported VHT MCS:
NSS1 Tx: 0-11 Rx: 0-11
NSS2 Tx: 0-11 Rx: 0-11
NSS3 Tx: 0-11 Rx: 0-11

Interference Level: Acceptable
Mode : AP Only

Stations List
----------------------------------------
idx MAC Associated Authorized RSSI PHY PSM SGI STBC MUBF NSS BW Tx rate Rx rate Connect Time
14:C1:4E:58:A0:CD Yes Yes -34dBm ac Yes Yes Yes Yes 1 20M 86.7M 1M 07:56:20
20:DF:B9:D2:82:EF Yes Yes -51dBm n No Yes No No 1 20M 58.5M 72.2M 09:36:20
18:69:D8:25:CF:4E Yes Yes -76dBm n Yes Yes Yes No 1 20M 52M 1M 21:38:16
18:69:D8:BA:AA:2A Yes Yes -65dBm g Yes No No No 1 20M 54M 1M 21:38:19
18:69:D8:BA:A5:6D Yes Yes -67dBm g Yes No No No 1 20M 54M 1M 21:38:19
18:69:D8:BA:92:AC Yes Yes -71dBm g Yes No No No 1 20M 48M 1M 21:38:19
18:69:D8:BA:7E:77 Yes Yes -67dBm g Yes No No No 1 20M 54M 1M 21:38:19
18:69:D8:AC:98:59 Yes Yes -61dBm g Yes No No No 1 20M 54M 1M 21:38:36
18:69:D8:BA:9A:D1 Yes Yes -57dBm n Yes Yes Yes No 1 20M 65M 1M 21:38:51
18:69:D8:AC:5A:C2 Yes Yes -56dBm n Yes Yes Yes No 1 20M 72.2M 1M 21:39:07
80:7D:3A:63:E1:5B Yes Yes -45dBm n Yes Yes Yes No 1 20M 72.2M 6M 21:39:09
18:69:D8:BA:A4:81 Yes Yes -50dBm n Yes Yes Yes No 1 20M 72.2M 1M 21:39:26
18:69:D8:AC:A5:B2 Yes Yes -50dBm n Yes Yes Yes No 1 20M 65M 1M 21:39:48
18:69:D8:BE:32:FB Yes Yes -48dBm n Yes Yes Yes No 1 20M 65M 1M 21:40:03
18:69:D8:AC:67:A1 Yes Yes -50dBm n Yes Yes Yes No 1 20M 52M 1M 21:40:20
F4:CF:A2:C4:90:0F Yes Yes -45dBm n Yes Yes Yes No 1 20M 72.2M 6M 21:40:21
BC:DD:C2:70:F6:2B Yes Yes -52dBm n Yes Yes Yes No 1 20M 65M 6M 21:40:21
C4:1C:FF:CF:16:DF Yes Yes -46dBm n No Yes Yes No 2 20M 65M 130M 21:43:06
0C:EE:99:48:9F:F4 Yes Yes -40dBm n No Yes Yes No 1 20M 72.2M 1M 21:44:12
20:FE:00:2E:0F:3D Yes Yes -51dBm n No Yes Yes No 2 20M 144.4M 1M 21:44:15
70:70:AA:DC:CB:C0 Yes Yes -52dBm n No Yes Yes No 1 20M 72.2M 39M 21:44:16
10:96:93:26:B5:3F Yes Yes -35dBm n No Yes Yes No 2 20M 144.4M 130M 21:44:16
F4:03:2A:F3:D7:77 Yes Yes -52dBm n No Yes No No 1 20M 65M 1M 21:44:18
68:9A:87:5C:61:01 Yes Yes -48dBm n No Yes No No 1 20M 72.2M 1M 21:44:19
1C:12:B0:F1:9F:29 Yes Yes -45dBm n No Yes No No 1 20M 65M
 
You have a few on the edge, but if they work properly - no action is needed. In a condo environment you may experiment with different than 1-6-11 channels. Set the 2.4GHz band temporarily on Auto and monitor what channel the router is using more often. This is the channel with more available bandwidth, most of the time. Don't be surprised, if it's different than 1-6-11. Most likely it will be different.
 
You have a few on the edge, but if they work properly - no action is needed. In a condo environment you may experiment with different than 1-6-11 channels. Set the 2.4GHz band temporarily on Auto and monitor what channel the router is using more often. This is the channel with more available bandwidth, most of the time. Don't be surprised, if it's different than 1-6-11. Most likely it will be different.
It is usually 2, or 3.
 
Well, since the Wireless log doesn't list the device names, I'll have to match by MAC address to see which ones are low. If they are the smart bulbs, it's probably the fixtures they are in interfering with the signal. A few of my lights are in floor lamps that have a metal base and socket with a heavy glass shade around the bulb, and of course the base of the bulb where the radios are, are in the socket which is heavy metal with the shade also around it. If what I've read about glass and metal interfering with WiFi is true, that's probably why they are low. Functionally, they usually work OK. If it becomes a problem, maybe I can eliminate the need for WiFi and find bulbs that can run on Bluetooth instead and are locally controlled.
 
In an apartment building, the devices with lower signal are usually located along load bearing walls, on the opposite side of the wall. Imagine the wall cross section diagonal - some devices will have a meter thick reinforced concrete obstruction, even though they are physically close to the router. They have to rely mostly on signal reflections.
 
In an apartment building, the devices with lower signal are usually located along load bearing walls, on the opposite side of the wall. Imagine the wall cross section diagonal - some devices will have a meter thick reinforced concrete obstruction, even though they are physically close to the router. They have to rely mostly on signal reflections.
I don't live in a building. My apartment is more the style of a house. ground level. They are duplexes here, e.g. in my case there are neighbors on one side, but not the other, There are rows of apartments here, and then there are the duplex units, but it's all ground level. This complex would probably be physically more like single floor townhouses, even though they are apartments. However, these apartments were built in the 60's so they may use material not friendly to WiFi, especially long range. For the most part though, I've had very little trouble overall when things are working, and set up properly.

I have neighbors on both sides, but not connected to me on the left side looking at my apartment from the front.
These are the apartments across from me, but it should give you an idea of the type of setup I'm in as it's the same.
 

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